Domaine des Amiel- Languedoc Wines with a Swartland Connection

Domaine des Amiel is a small winery in the Languedoc, run by two brothers, Aymeric and Jordan. They are continuing deep family roots, with the Amiel family having a viticultural history in Mont Blanc dating back to the late 1400s. The brothers first vintage together was 2013.

Aymeric has strong wine pedigree, holding a Master in International Commerce of Wine and Spirits (ESC Dijon, Burgundy) and is particularly well traveled, having wine making experience in Argentina, Chile, California and 4 years in South Africa.

Jordan is a doctor in traditional Chinese medicine and holds a real interest in natural & preventative therapies- perhaps a strong influence in the natural farming and wine making methods the brothers use.

I visited the winery last week, on a recommendation from a good friend and Swartland winemaker, Jurgen Gouws (Intellego) and was extremely impressed with what the brothers are doing.

The cellar entrance at Domaine des Amiel

Before visiting the vineyards, Aymeric explained to us the connection he feels between the Swartland and their small part of the Languedoc-Roussillon. A dry, challenging place with hot temperatures and very few vignerons. The majority of grapes grown are sent to the cooperatives and high-quality wine is difficult to come across. A very similar story to that of the Swartland in South Africa before the recent emergence of wine revolutionaries turned the region into one of the most exciting in the world wine scene. Aymeric readily admits that what he saw and learned whilst in South Africa is a huge inspiration for his work.

The brothers took over 9 hectares of vineyards aged between 15-35 years in 2012, and converted everything to strict Organic farming methods. They are certified Organic by Ecocert and they also work Biodynamically without certification.

Aymeric told us how he and Jordan are 100% hands-on with all aspects of the farming, and aim to encourage as much ecological diversity in their vineyards as possible.

Aymeric Amiel

This biodiversity was clear to see, with a huge variety of plant and insect life growing amidst the vines, including thistles, poppies and maritime beetroot which naturally grows due to the vineyards being within 10km of the sea.

Rather than using chemical sprays, they have ingenious methods of dealing with pests. For example, to counteract the damaging Grapevine Moth, which lays its eggs in the berries,  they use a method called 'sexual confusion'. They attach tiny devices to the vines that emit sexual pheromones and prevent the moths from mating, thus preventing the pest producing larvae instead of using harsh chemical treatments to kill the larvae once they have infected the vines.

Plant life between the vines

A block of 5 year old Vermentino vines

 The brothers are currently in the process of planting trees all around the perimeters of the vineyard plots to further encourage biodiversity, and hope to introduce a number of animals (goats, pigs, horses, sheep, pigs and donkeys) to graze in the vineyards in between growing seasons. It will be quite a special project when finished, and the roots they are setting down for the future are very encouraging. As the brothers say: "we consider ourselves to be borrowing the land from our children. We strive to make it better for them".

They grow a number of varietals, including Vermentino, Grenache Blanc, Syrah, Grenache, Cinsault & Alicante Bouschet and they plan to plant more, including Chenin Blanc bush vines. Aymeric and his dog, Gandhi, took us through some of these, before we headed back to their home to taste through the wines.

Gandhi

35 year old Alicante Bouschet vine

Younger Vines

Vines without trellising- the aim is to create bush vines.

Their home, and the cellar is situated in the tiny, picturesque town of Mont Blanc. Alongside making wine, they are in the process of opening up a restaurant and guesthouse. After tasting through their wines (tasting notes below), Aymeric made us a delicious lunch, all from locally sourced organic and biodynamic produce.

The courtyard kitchen

Aymeric preparing our lunch

The aftermath of our tasting

Starter: Beef tartare terrine with honey, olive oil & cheese

Roast pepper, young cheese and sausage

The restaurant under construction

Safe to say the food was delicious, and the restaurant looks like a very exciting prospect- I'll certainly be paying a visit when it's up and running.

So, onto the wines. The brothers state the importance of healthy grapes in the winemaking process: "no good grapes, no good wines", hence the focus on the farming. In the winery, they are there to monitor and guide the wines, rather than 'make' them. They ferment the wines completely naturally, and don't add yeasts, enzymes or sulfites. The wines are aged in tank or old barrels- no new oak is used in the winery as they don't want oaky characteristics in the wines.

Whilst the brothers work naturally, they appreciate the importance of technological help- "to make natural wines does not mean to hate technology- when we need it we use it". It is important for the brothers to make clean, precise wines, rather than faulty wines for the sake of being natural. The wines all go through laboratory analysis, to measure sugar, acidity, polyphenols, minerals etc, and when necessary they will be filtered or have small sulfur additions. However, in general the wines have no sulfur added and are not fined or filtered. The brothers are extremely careful about their harvesting time, and pick early to ensure freshness and moderate alcohol levels in their wines.

Tasting through the range was extremely exciting. Clean natural wines with character, purity and freshness. The brothers have a very exciting future ahead of them.

Notes on the wines below, all wines except the last 2015 vintage. Apologies for the lack of accents- can't find them on this programme.

 A Baia

A delicious rosé made from a blend of Merlot, Syrah and a small Vermentino addition to give acidity and freshness. Green & floral on the nose with flavours of wild strawberries and herbs. Very fresh despite a rich texture and supple tannin. Named after the latest addition to the family, little baby Baia (hence the pram on the label). 30mg sulphur added.

Premier Rolle

100% Vermentino, aged and fermented in steel tank. Picked early to retain freshness. Huge, bracing, mouth-watering acidity with bright citrus and fennel notes and a nice weight to the body. The finish is pleasantly bitter, almost quinine-esque. Perhaps a bit of a challenge without food for those who prefer softer whites, but certainly not out of balance and for an acid-freak like me this ticked all the boxes. Electric and invigorating, left my mouth fully watered and wanting more. Loved it. The name is a play on the word 'Rolle', with 'Premier Rolle' meaning the main acting role in a film, but Rolle also being a French synonym for Vermentino. 30mg sulphur added.

A Elise

A blend of Vermentino and Grenache Blanc. Aged in old oak. Deep golden in colour, the wine is weighty and powerful with rich stone fruits on the nose and an intense nuttiness. Complex and deep but still fresh and elegant. Named after the brothers' grandmother, Elise. No sulphur added.

Mounto Daballo

A blend of Cinsault and Alicante Bouschet. A vin de soif of the highest order. Juicy, fruity, spicy with the featheriest of tannin. Utterly smashable. The bottle was finished before I had a chance to write any decent notes, which tells you a lot. Loved it, loved it and loved it some more. The name apparently means 'down and up'; in other words the bottle goes down quicker than you can fill it up. They're not wrong. A case of magnums please, sir. Less than 10mg sulphur added.

A Coural

80% Syrah and 20% Grenache. Fermented and aged in tank. Dark, rich, crunchy red fruits with a beautiful flinty core. It's ripe but it has a lovely stony freshness, and all at an absolute bargain price. Bang on. No sulphur added.

Pico Chuco

A blend of co-fermented Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault. The fermentation stopped by itself, leaving a residual sugar of 12g/l. Unsure with what to do with it, Jordan convinced Aymeric to bottle and sell it; what an inspired decision that was. It may be ever so slightly sweet, but it's by no means cloying. I hadn't really tasted anything like it before. Full of redcurrant and strawberry flavours, kind of like Ribena for adults. It may have been an accident, but it was certainly a happy one. Chill it down and drink it by the gallon- or give it to people who don't like red wine, they'll love this. 'Pico Chuco' means sting and suck. Lightly filtered and 30mg sulphur added.

A l'Ouest

A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and a dash of Carignan. Full-bodied and leathery with ripe blackcurrant fruits. A Bordeaux blend with a Languedoc twist- a 'Bordoc' as Aymeric called it. Big tannin and lots of crunch to work those dry gums around. 'L'ouest' meaning West, a hark to the Bordeaux varietals used, in case you hadn't already worked it out.

A Peissou

100% Syrah. Half aged in old oak and half in tank. Oo la la. Deep, inviting nose with pretty floral aromas giving some lift. It's seductive and draws you into the glass, giving an intense, powerful richness that somehow feels oh so elegant. It's full to the brim with dark fruits, but has so much more going on. Layer after layer of flavour waiting to be uncovered. Earth, herbs, stones, smoke... I guess you'd call it complexity. A serious wine. 'Peissou' means clarinet- a throwback to their grandfather who apparently was never far from his clarinet, 'a man of culture' they call him. No sulphur added.

At the moment the wines aren't available in the UK, but are exported to Japan and the USA. Fingers crossed that will change very soon. More news on that front shortly...


@bobbyfishel
http://domaine-des-amiel.com/

Le Lude Cap Classique

Nestled in the mountains, situated only a few minutes from the centre of Franschoek, at the end of a recently planted alleyway of trees and vineyards lies the Le Lude cellar. A family winery, founded in 2009 by the much celebrated Nic and Ferda Barrow, Le Lude was created with the aim of producing the finest Cap Classique wines.

The long driveway to the entrance gives a sense of grandiose, which is married by the imposing glass arches and opulent marble floors that create the entrance to the cellar. The owners live on the farm, and there will also be a guest house and restaurant that will aim to open around September this year. There is a small orchard in the back, cared for by Ferda that will supply the kitchen with fresh ingredients.

There are building works going on at the farm and there is still a lot of work to do before completion, but the ambition and meticulous attention to detail is already clear to see.

After a quick walk around the farm, I was joined by Paul Gerber, winemaker at Le Lude for a tour of the cellar and a tasting of the wines. Once a Mathematics teacher, Paul now spends a significant amount of time in Champagne, taking tips and learning from the very best in sparkling wine production. His enthusiasm and respect for tradition is infectious and he seems to have found a happy equilibrium with the owners, who are prepared to invest in the strive for quality and heritage over immediate financial returns.

Paul explained how in 2009, when the farm was bought, it was little more than an overgrown plum orchard. Since then, the 3 major Champagne varieties (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier) have been planted. These grapes have not been used in any of the wines so far, with Paul choosing his grapes from specially selected plots all over the Western Cape. The first harvest was in 2012, and all the grapes are hand picked and placed in shallow baskets to prevent the grapes from becoming bruised. The wine is then left to mature for 3 years, which will be a minimum for the Le Lude range. I'll explain a bit more about Le Lude's unique methods of maturation a bit later on.

I asked Paul what he looks for when choosing the grapes, and he told me that acidity levels are key. Finding grapes with the right backbone of acidity is essential, alongside good levels of ripeness. He said that "once you have your acidity, you can use blending to build your elegance".

We moved into the cellar, where the barrels were being cleaned, and the theme of attention to detail is clear once again- this is a cellar custom made for sparkling wine production, with no expense spared. The barrels come from a single supplier in Champagne, and all the bottles, branded with the Le Lude logo, are imported from Italy. The real star of the show however, is the specially designed underground cellar, where the bottles, shrouded in dust as if they've been there for centuries, lie in perfect, cool conditions to mature before release.

We went downstairs, greeted by a generous platter of bread, meat and cheese to taste through the blending components of the wines.

The first wines we tasted were a comparison of Chardonnay base wines, one from Robertson and one from Bonnievale. This was fascinating to see, as the benefits of blending became immediately obvious. The Robertson wine had an intense, fresh acidity, whereas the wine from Bonnievale had a much rounder, creamier texture and flavour. When blended together, these two wines would compliment each other well. Next we tried a Pinot Noir from Robertson, which had a lovely texture and a slightly lower acidity than the two Chardonnays, displaying strawberries and cream and subtle cherry fruits on the palate.

The reserve wines from 2012 and 2013 were up next. Paul explained that in 2012, all the barrels used were brand new and this was extremely obvious in the wine. The wood was very powerful, with rich, toasty notes dominating the flavour profile, becoming slightly less prominent in the 2013 reserve. Both of these wines will be used as blending components.

Paul is experimenting with 'Agrafe' maturation in the wines, and Le Lude is the first and currently the only winery in South Africa to do this. The majority of Cap Classique/Champagne wines are matured under crown cap (the caps you see on beer bottles) before being disgorged and then sealed with cork. Agrafe, however, is where the wine is matured under a cork that is stapled in (see picture below), an old and expensive tradition used in Champagne.

We tried the 2012 Brut aged under crown cap against the 2012 Brut aged under cork, and the results were remarkable.  The crown cap showed bright citrus fruit and a good acidity, with a focused palate and a linear, taut finish. The cork was markedly different, with layers and layers of flavour, there was definitely more complexity here and it was fascinating to see.

Of course, this difference may have been more noticeable as I was told which was which beforehand. Paul decided to put my palate to the test and try the 2012 Rosé, crown and cork, blind. This put me on the spot, but I'm pleased to say the difference was so noticeable once again that it was easy enough to spot. The crown cap seal was fresh and bright, with concentrated strawberry and cherry flavours, whereas the cork seal had developed a more complex palate with blackcurrant fruits and aniseed providing a depth of flavour to the bright, juicy red fruits.

Both the Rosé and the Brut are planned for release in October 2015 and will go on sale at around R175 per bottle. The wines certainly aren't cheap, but they're not overtly expensive either, and I consider them to be a real bargain when you consider the quality levels that these wines are reaching.

The final wine we tasted was the Prestige Cuveé (not yet named). It is planned for release in 2017, when it would have had 5 years maturation in the cellar. It is a blend of the best tanks and will be Le Lude's flagship wine. There was a slight nuttiness on the nose, with gentle marzipan notes adding a depth to the blossom and whiteflower aromas. On the palate there was a bracing acidity, which autolysis will soften over time. The flavours had a real density, with lemon rind and almond washing over the tongue in waves. Rather than picking out individual components though, the wine shone as an experience. It was beautifully finessed, and though it was very acidic it was ready to drink now. With another 2 years in bottle it should develop a stunning flavour profile and complexity, becoming a brilliant, balanced wine that becomes the shining light in South Africa's sparkling wine scene; the very best in Cap Classique.

http://www.lelude.co.za/

@bobbyfishel

A Visit To Steenberg

The Steenberg winery is based at the oldest farm in Cape Town, established in 1682. Steenberg (meaning stone mountain) is in Constantia, only 20 minutes from the centre of Cape Town. On site there is a five-star hotel, a fine-dining restaurant, Tapas Bistro and the cellar.

Situated on a peninsula with close proximity to the sea, the east-facing slopes of the vineyards receive the sun in the morning but are shrouded in shadow throughout the afternoon. This means the climate is cooler than most areas, and as a result white varieties thrive here, with 70% of the wine made being Sauvignon Blanc/Semillion blends. The soils suit white cultivars, with a mix of decomposed granite and a fine, white porcelain. The winemaker JD Pretorius and manager John Loubser spoke about the minerality that these soils give to the wines. The vines at Steenberg vary in age, with the oldest being 26 years old.

Sauvignon Blanc and Semillion Vineyards 

Decomposed granite and porcelain soils

I was shown around the Tapas restaurant at Steenberg, called Bistro 1682 and was mightily impressed by the beautiful water features surrounding the outside patio and the stylish decor of the tasting rooms, not to mention a fantastic hanging display over the bar, made from 2700 handcrafted glass grapes.

Bistro 1682

Water features

One of the tasting rooms

Hanging display of glass grapes

The well-equipped, modern winery is attached to the bistro and JD and John showed me the vinification methods of both the still and sparkling wines, before we tasted through the tanks and barrels.

Barrels and tanks in the winery

Winemaker JD Pretorius drawing wine from a barrel

Alongside the Steenberg wines, the winery contains John Loubser's own label MCC (Methode Cap Classique) wines called 'Silverthorn'. I've enthused about the Silverthorn wines before so it was interesting to see how these wines are made. As per the traditional method in Champagne, all these wines are slowly hand turned over an extended period of time before disgorgement, which is a labour intensive process. 

The Silverthorn Wines in bottle

After tasting in the cellar, we moved on to the tasting room upstairs in the Bistro to taste through both the Silverthorn and Steenberg ranges. Notes on the wines below. 

Upstairs tasting room in the bistro

Silverthorn 

Silverthorn (named after the thorns of the Acacia tree) was started by John Loubser in 2004, with the aim of making good quality, boutique Cap Classique wines. In 2004, the first vintage produced 3000 bottles, whereas the production is now 10,000 bottles. A large increase, but still a very small production. There are three wines in the Silverthorn range, a Blanc de Blancs, a Cuvée and a Rosé. 

Green Man 2012

Named after the spirit of the forest, the wine is 100% Chardonnay from Robertson fruit. 10% of the base wine was barrel fermented and the wine spent 30 months on the lees before disgorgement. A steely, citrus nose with a fine mousse and gorgeous, subtle notes of biscuit and toast. This is a remarkably fresh wine, and will reward you more for every year you let it age. 

The Green Man 2012 

Jewell Box 2011

Silverthorn's flagship wine, there were only 3,500 bottles made of this vintage. The name derives from the English astronomer, John Hershaw, in the 1830s nicknaming a star-cluster seen from Cape Town 'Jewell Box'. John (winemaker not 1800s astronomer) states that the idea behind the wine is to capture the African feeling, whilst keeping the product globally resonant. The packaging on all these wines is detailed and meaningful, (my terrible pictures really don't do them justice) with the Jewell Box showing the star cluster on the bottle neck.

Jewell Box star cluster

Details on the cap

The wine is a blend of 60% Chardonnay, 60% Pinot Noir and spent 42 months on the lees. There is juicy red apple fruit balancing out crisp citrus notes and a fantastic complexity of flavour. It evolved and opened whilst in the glass, displaying a nutty, almond and marzipan essence. It is drinking exceptionally well now and I can really see this bottle developing into a truly stunning wine with time to age. 

Jewell Box 2011

Genie

The largest production, with 11,000 bottles made. A non-vintage wine, made from 100% tank-aged Syrah with only a short period on the lees. Showing vibrant raspberry fruit on the nose, with notes of rosewater and turkish delight. This is less serious than the other two, but is a lot of fun to drink and makes for a perfect aperitif. 

Genie NV

Silverthorn Wines in glass 

Steenberg

Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc 2014

100% Sauvignon Blanc, the wine has a slightly discernible sweetness, with a residual sugar of 10.5g/l. It is lively, fruity and fresh with lemon, green apple, pineapple and guava all bursting from the glass, ideal for providing refreshment on a hot day. 

Sparkling Pinot Noir 2012

Made in a lighter style, with the grapes undergoing whole bunch press before fermentation. Pale salmon-pink, strawberries and cream stood out on the nose, following into strawberries and cream once again on the palate. A wine for Wimbledon. 

Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir

Sauvignon Blanc 2014

The fruit for the Steenberg Sauvignon Blanc comes from stressed vines, with small canopies and high winds leading to low yields. On the nose there is goosberry, lime and elderflower. Lime rind and citrus fruit stand out on the palate, with a mineral, flint and gun-smoke character. 

Steenberg Sauvignon Blanc

Rattlesnake 2014

Named after a ship that was used in the battle of Muizenberg in the 1700s, 20% of the wine spent time in new oak. Green apple and lime notes of rounded off by woody aromas and a rich, oily texture. A versatile wine that will pair well with food. 

Rattlesnake 2014

Black Swan 2013

Steenberg's flagship Sauvignon Blanc, with 60% of the grapes coming from the farm's oldest vines. Time on the lees and a years bottle aging, alongside being the only cork sealed Sauvignon Blanc lead to the premium status. White pepper and lime rind on the nose provide lightness to the full-bodied, textural palate and the flinty mineral core. 

The Black Swan 2013

Semillion 2013

Coming from two clones of the Semillion vine, the wine spent 9 months in french oak, including 35% in new oak. There are distinct Asian aromas on the nose, with lemongrass and bean sprouts combing with ripe tangerine. On the palate there is juicy white peach and stone fruits, with a thick, oily texture and a nice acidity to prevent any flabbiness. 

Semillion 2013

Magna Carta 2012

A barrel aged blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillion, this is the most premium wine of the range. Named after the Magna Carta document created by King John in 1215 (800 years ago this year), the wine is seen to be 'the law above the law', like the Magna Carta itself. There is no mention of Steenberg on the label, as the wine is potrayed as an entity unto its own. A wine that will age well for up to twenty years, there are layered citrus aromas and a real textural opulence, cut through by a fine acidity. 

Magna Carta 2012

Nebbiolo 2013

I'd never come across a South African Nebbiolo before, so it was intriguing to see Steenberg's take on the grape. Coming from South Africa's first planting of Nebbiolo in 1994, there is black cherry, rhubarb, dried fruits and rose on the nose. The wine is ethereal in the mouth, like silk fluttering in a breeze, before the oaken notes and huge tannin, typical of Nebbiolo, draws the moisture from your mouth and reminds you of the serious backbone to the wine. Unusual, and extremely enjoyable.

Nebbiolo 2013

Merlot 2011

Lavender, mint and violet on the nose, with soft and velvety plum fruit and hints of dark chocolate given earthiness from herbal, fynbos notes. The wine is weighty but well structured with firm tannin. It will reward some time in the cellar. 

Merlot 2011

Catarina 2013

This is the premium red blend from Steenberg. Named after the original owner of the farm in the 1600s. She was a German woman called Catarina. After her husband died, she disguised herself as a man, decided to set up a farm and began a new life in Cape Town. She met a German Soldier called Hans (who saw through the disguise) and started to farm cattle. Unfortunately for her, the curse of the luckless husband did not leave her behind. A severe drought caused lions to come down from the mountains and eat the cows. Hans was killed by a lion whilst defending his cattle, leaving Catarina alone again. This solitude did not last long, and Catarina shortly found love once more, this time with a hunter. However, her third husband went out on a hunting expedition, only to never return and was pronounced dead after 9 months.

No prizes for guessing what happened next. Catarina married for a fourth time, only for a rogue elephant to trample her desperately unlucky spouse, causing him to suffer the fate of her previous partners. Not to be put off by the four consecutive deaths of her husbands, she married again, to what must have been a very brave/foolish man. The fifth husband, however, avoided death's clammy grasp and managed to outlive Catarina, looking after her 13 children in the process.

After this tale of misery and woe I was more than ready to try the wine. A full-bodied blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, there is an abundance of ripe red fruit on the nose, accompanied by earthy, herbal notes. Weighty and tannic, the wine has a complex depth of flavour and will reward extended cellaring. A wine to die for...

Catarina 2013

After tasting through the wines, John opened a bottle of both the Silverthorn Green Man and Jewel Box from the 2009 vintage, which demonstrated just how well these wines will reward time in cellar. To go with the wines we were served a vast array of tapas from the Bistro 1682 kitchen. They were utterly delicious, and there was enough food for myself, John, JD, Catarina and all of her husbands. I ate until I was fit to burst, thanked John and JD for their hospitality and left feeling very full and very happy.


http://www.steenbergfarm.com/

@bobbyfishel