Thursday, 7 May 2015

Testalonga: A New Home, A Fresh Start.

Those who know me well will be familiar with my obsession regarding the Testalonga wines. Craig Hawkins made the first wines that opened my eyes to the unique and diverse world of natural wine and they remain one of my major sources of inspiration. Thus when, due to 'investor relations' (I'll say no more), Craig and his family had to leave Lammershoek, the farm where he used to make his wines, it left a sour taste. However, it also means that Craig, Carla and the family have the opportunity to start a new chapter in their lives, leave Lammershoek behind them and focus solely on the Testalonga brand.

Craig, his soon-to-be wife Carla, her parents and Craig's father are all relocating to a new farm in Piketburg, approximately an hour and a half drive from Cape Town. I had the privilege to be shown around the farm and I was bowled over by the sheer beauty of their new home.

The new farm in the Piketburg Mountains

The farm is nestled high in the Piketburg mountains, with a stunning view overlooking the vineyards and land beneath.






It was not only humans that had to be moved to the farm, and the Nguni cattle and Donkeys were successfully and safely transported to their new home.




The farm is alive and bustling with all manner of fauna and flora. The farm animals will be sharing their home with a wide array of wild creatures; we saw baboons, eagles and there are even leopards and other small cats high in the mountains. There is an abundance of plant life, from small bushes of tea plants and fynbos to wild olive trees.

Wild Olives


Tea plant



Spoor of a small cat in the sand, maybe a Gennet

Craig and Carla walked us round the farm, and Craig explained how the soils should make a perfect location for growing grapes. The soils are an unusual mix of schist meeting sandstone, and such a mixture should impart unique and complex flavours into the grapes. The vines are still in the process of being planted, and won't be fruit bearing for another few years but it will be interesting to see how the wines from the farm turn out.



Craig and Carla patrolling the farm






A gap by the side of the cellar shows a perfect cross-section of the rocky soils.
The farm is supplied by water from a completely natural source running from the mountains. We followed the pipeline that carries the water into two large dams all the way up into the mountain, climbing over rocks and ducking under bushes and trees until we reached the source. We drank the water directly from the pipe and it was clean, pure and delicious. 







Craig cleaning up the baboon's mess in one of the dams


On the farm they are also building a large new cellar and winery, where the wines will be made and stored. 

The inside of the new cellar

The farm has a life-giving aura, an atmosphere of being at one with nature and spending the day there made me excited about the future of Testalonga. There is undoubtedly a lot of work to be done, and the building will be timely and expensive, but it is a lifelong project and the foundations are in place for something truly special.

After sharing a drink on the veranda overlooking the farm and taking some time to savour the view, we drove back to the Paardeberg, where the wines are currently being stored, to taste through the new vintage.

We started with a new wine for this year, the 'Baby Bandito'. It is 100% Chenin Blanc from bush vines planted in 1972. The wine is tank fermented and very fresh as a result. It is tight and focused, showing bright lemon notes on the nose and a bracing acidity.

Baby Bandito in tank

Next we moved onto to the 'El Bandito Cortez'. Again 100% Chenin, the grapes were harvested at different levels of ripeness with some aged in barrel and some in tank. The wine is clean and vibrant, with vivid citrus notes complemented by an underlying oxidative, nutty complexity. The 2014 Cortez is one of my favourite wines on the planet and the '15 is shaping up to be similarly brilliant.

Cortez Chenin in barrel

I was delighted to hear that Craig will be continuing to make a Harslevulu after the move, as the Cellarfoot Harslevulu he made whilst at Lammershoek was a gorgeous wine. We tasted the '15 vintage in barrel. The wine had some skin contact, and was a deep, golden-bronze colour. The nose showed fresh floral notes with undertones of darker, earthy herbs. There was lovely depth to the wine and a slight grip on the finish with a fresh acidity giving life to the rich, complex flavours.

Harslevulu in barrel
There was some more good news, as the 'Sweet Cheeks' Muscat is also making a comeback after there was no 2014 vintage due to mildew problems. Also a skin contact wine, the nose was extremely aromatic with the distinctive Muscat aromas of litchi and grape given a depth and complexity from the time spent on skins. A sensual wine with a fascinating mineral core that is unusual and stimulating.

Craig is also making a single vineyard Chenin this year, intriguingly called 'Karl Marx'. The vineyard is only one hectare in size, thus the quantities are extremely limited. Out of the barrel the wine was very taut and pure, with a lovely structure. It is always interesting to see the way that different vineyards produce completely different wines.

Karl Marx Chenin in barrel

Next up was the final white (well, orange) wine of the day, the famed skin contact Chenin, El Bandito. After 21 days on the skins, the wine is aged in old spirit vats, which allows the wine to take on oxidative, nutty notes which add to the already deep, complex flavours created by skin contact. A characterful and interesting wine, there is a real crunchy tannin which provides a bedrock to layer after layer of flavour. 

Craig sampling the El Bandito out of the spirit vats

We moved on to Craig's 2015 Zinfandel Rose. A pale, salmon-pink in colour, the wine was fermented in stainless steel and was fresh, bouncy and fun to drink. It showed gentle strawberry and red fruit character and would be perfect drinking on a balmy summer evening.

Wines in barrel at the cellar

Next up were the reds. First was the 2015 Zinfandel. An exuberant, ruby-red colour, the wine had a reductive, oniony nose that will blow off with time in barrel. The palate showed fresh primary fruits, cherry and ripe plum with a crisp acidity.

This was followed by the 'King of Grapes' Grenache, another real stand-out wine from the Testalonga range. Pale in colour, the wine has an alluring elegance with refined raspberry and cranberry on the nose given depth by an intense earthiness on the palate. The integrated tannin gives the fresh, drinkable wine structure and finesse.   

Another 'Baby Bandito' wine was next. 100% Carignan, the colour was bold and deep and the nose was full of savoury characteristics highlighted by a peppery spice. 

Craig talking us through his Baby Bandito Carignan
Craig's Syrah was the final red we tasted. In 2014, he released a Syrah entitled 'Redemption'. It was a wine with heart, soul and meaning behind it (think aforementioned investor relations), and made a stunning point regarding the quality of the Testalonga wines. The 2015 won't be called Redemption, so we wait in anticipation for the name, however the wine is tasting like it will live up to the 2014 vintage. Dark, peppery spice and restrained black fruits lead to an assured, brooding wine. This is light years away from a jammy, oaky New World Shiraz and instead is elegantly confident and displays Syrah at its best. A wine to be excited about.

The 2014 Redemption Syrah

Before the afternoon was over, we had time to pick up a bottle of Craig's 2015 Pet Nat, a sparkling wine rather amusingly entitled 'I wish I was a Ninja'. At 15g/l of residual sugar, you probably won't find this in your dentist's cellar, but it had a nice, creamy mousse, gentle peach flavours and was a lot of fun to drink. We drove up to the vineyards on top of the Paardeberg and shared the bottle whilst watching the sunset. It was a prophetic end to a day that was a celebration of a new beginning for Testalonga. 


  


@bobbyfishel

Sunday, 3 May 2015

Swartland Independent Street Party


 The Swartland Independent Street Party, 25/04/2015


The Swartland Independent is a group of growers and winemakers in the Swartland region of the Western Cape. They aim to make wine that is a "true expression of their origin - of the broad landscape of the Swartland. Wines that, though coming from different cellars and sometimes different areas, will all speak of the greater landscape - wines that will, in a sense, bear the DNA of the region." 
http://www.swartlandindependent.co.za/home/

It's also where many of my favourite wines in the world come from. In order to qualify as a member of the Independent, producers must satisfy a number of requirements:

  1. An Independent wine must be grown entirely in the Swartland.
  2. It must also be vinified, matured and bottled in the Swartland.
  3. An Independent producer will bottle at least 80% of his wine production under his own labels.
  4. Wines carrying the SI logo must be naturally produced and have minimal intervention in the cellar. This means the wine:
    • has no inoculated yeast, or added yeast supplement
    • will not be acidified
    • has no added tannin
    • will not be chemically fined
    • will not undergo any technological process (reverse osmosis) which will alter the constitution of the wine
  5. A Swartland Independent wine must consist of a minimum of 90% of the following varieties:
    • Red wine: Syrah/shiraz, Mourvèdre, Grenache Noir, Carignan, Cinsaut, Tinta Barocca, Pinotage
    • White wine: Chenin Blanc, Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Roussanne, Viognier, Clairette Blanche, Palomino, Semillon
  6. Because heavy oaking can “mask” the essence of the grape, no Swartland Independent wine may be aged with more than 25% kept in new wood as a component. All wood needs to be of European origin.
  7. All wines of the Independent must be bottled in a “Burgundy shape” bottles.
see http://www.swartlandindependent.co.za/values/ for more information. 

For me, these regulations mean that the wines produced are not only of seriously good quality, but also wines that are alive. They evolve in the glass and change with every taste, they are unique and demonstrate real personality, they are fun to drink and are a far cry from the processed bulk wines found on most supermarket shelves. 

For the Street Party, approximately 400 enthusiasts converged to taste the producers showing their wines in Riebeek Kasteel, there was a festival atmosphere with the pourers merging with the drinkers, live music and a gin bar for when we needed a palate cleanser. 


Riebeek Kasteel teeming with tasters

Some hay bales to sit and take a break 
Nothing quite like a G&T for refreshment after a long day of tasting


We picked up our glasses (included in the entry price of R200) and set about tasting. There were far too many wines on show to document them all, but I'll list a few of my favourites at the bottom. I was delighted to see that Callie Louw, viticulturist and wine maker at Porseleinberg had brought his 'Southern Smoke' along, a Texan-styled slow meat smoker that makes some of the most flavoursome meat I've tasted. So for lunch there was pulled pork and beef brisket rolls, washed down with Porseleinberg Syrah, one of the best wines to come out of South Africa, and at one of the highest price points too (approximately £65-70 per bottle in the UK).

Southern Smoke

Beef Brisket Roll

A winning combination: beef brisket and world class Syrah from Porseleinberg

No trip to the Swartland is complete without a glass of Adi Baadenhorst's 'Caperitif'. A joyous drink that was once lost in time, it has been rediscovered and revitalised under Adi's careful guidance. A wine based spirit, much like vermouth, it has a bitterness created by Quinchona bark and is flavoured by no less than 35 botanicals, including Fynbos, Kalmoes and Naartjies. Delicious served with ice and tonic on a hot day, it proved to be the perfect invigoration when I was tiring in the early afternoon.
Caperitif in bottle
Caperitif and tonic in the Swartland Independent Glass
The Caperitif stand providing refreshment to weary partygoers
The drinks continued to flow and the tastings pressed on well into the late afternoon. As the sun was setting over the mountainous back drop and the last drips were drained from every bottle, it was time to head to Mama Cucina for some of the best pizzas in the Swartland to reflect on a day that I was sad had to end.

One of the attendees taking a well earned nap
Below is a quick account of some of my stand-out wines from the day:

Chevallerie

The only sparkling wines on display at the tasting. Christa, the owner/manager/winemaker makes two delicious wines. Firstly, her Circa 'Rosseco'. A play on Prosecco, the wine is a bubbly rosé made from 12 year old Pinotage bush vines. A fresh and fun drink, the perfect aperitif wine.
She also makes a Cap Classique 'Filia'. Gorgeous baked bread and brioche aromas create a complexity that complements the fine mousse and vivid green apple and pear flavours. Mouth-watering and moreish.

Sequillo Cellars

Eben Sadie's wines get another makeover with their new release, a sneak preview of the beautiful new labels below. Unfortunately a red wine spillage has sullied my notes, but you don't need me to tell you how great these wines are, the world and his wife will do that.





Stormborn

A completely new producer for me, Konrad Raubenheimer is an IT specialist who makes wine in his free time. He was showing two wines:

Firstborn- A Chenin Blanc from granitic soils in the Paardeberg. It had a month on skins and 100% whole bunch press. The wine was cloudy in appearance, showing a deep tawny colour that resulted from its time on skins. The wine was alive with complex citrus and nutty flavours and finished with a lovely pithy grip. Well structured and so refreshing for a wine with extended skin contact.

Stormborn Firstborn
Die Stilte- 100% Grenache from red iron soils in Malmesbury. 100% whole bunch pressed. Pale ruby in colour, it was not dissimilar to a Pinot Noir in appearance. It was intensely perfumed on the nose, with elegant red fruits and dark, spicy herbs. Surprisingly refined and finessed, I really enjoyed tasting (drinking) this and went back for glass after glass.

Adi Baadenhorst 

Adi was showing a range of his wines, but one in particular stood out for me. He was pouring his 2011 'CH Raaigras' Grenache which is apparently an unreleased wine that is not for sale. Vibrant ruby with a purple tinge, the wine showed fresh plums and cherry on the nose, with a distinct flavour not dissimilar to Bakewell tart. It was a pretty wine with a lot of funkiness that was toned down by grippy, well integrated tannin.

____________________________________________

Special notes also go to Craig Hawkins and Carla Kretzel pouring their Testalonga range, Ryan Mostert and Sam Suddons, who were pouring their 'Silverweis' wines, Johan Meyer/Krige Vesser who were pouring their Mount Abora range and Jasper Wickens, with his Swerwer blends. Individual posts dedicated to all of these producers and their wines will be coming in the near future.

http://www.swartlandindependent.co.za/

@bobbyfishel


Friday, 1 May 2015

A Morning With Chris Alheit

The backdrop of Chris's cellar at Hemelrand

"We aim to make wines that have a fine form and are not bulky. Nobody likes to fight their way through a massively rich, boozy, flabby, beast of a wine. We hope to craft wines that have ample power, but no excess weight - something akin to a gymnast, rather than a sumo wrestler." 
http://www.alheitvineyards.co.za/home/

Chris Alheit makes wine with his wife, Suzaan, in a beautiful cellar situated high up on the Hemel & Aarde Ridge, Walker Bay. They only release white wines, and are most renowned for 'Cartology', a blend of Chenin Blanc and Semillion from vineyards that are cherry-picked across the Western Cape. For these vineyards, Chris looks for old, dry farmed, bush vines and stresses the importance of the 'site' in his wines. 
The wines are made as naturally and with as little intervention as possible, with nothing except a small amount of sulfur added at bottling. All the wines are aged in old oak or clay, with Chris making his views on new oak very clear: "new oak is the most expensive way to ruin a wine".

We tasted through the individual barrels from the differing vineyards. It was fascinating to see the idiosyncrasies of each site and the difference they make to the final blend. 

Uitsig 
The name of this vineyard means 'outlook', and it is a granitic soil based vineyard in the Paardeberg. The citrus and pineapple fruit flavours were extremely concentrated, the purity of fruit really shone. There was also an unusual aroma to the wine I couldn't put my finger on, Chris described it as "dusty cupboard" and who am I to argue? 


Makstok
Meaning 'ungrafted vines'. It is a vineyard in the Skurfberg mountain, an area that has become famous due to the quality of its Chenin Blanc. The soils are red in colour and high in iron, with a layer of gravel on top of clay. Chris highlighted the importance of soil. saying "the soils have a huge effect, though I'm not exactly sure why". The wine showed notes of grapefruit, lemon peel and peach, and sparkled with a remarkable, driving acidity, resulting from an earlier than usual harvest. This is also released as a stunning single vineyard bottling.



Langbene
Meaning 'long legged'. From 33yr old vines with a schist soil base. This was the latest harvest out of all the barrels as the vineyard tends to ripen slowly. The wine had a delicate, feminine nose with notes of lime blossom and citrus fruits.


Radio Lazarus
Like the Makstok, this is also a single vineyard release. It comes from a Stellenbosch vineyard that is split into two segments 600m apart, separated down the middle by a gulley. Each part is aged in a clay pot that is made locally, in Haut's Bay. The vineyard is 2.2 hectares in size and produces tiny yields from the dry bush vines. The wine was buzzing with ripe apple, pineapple and candied fruits with a tight structure.
Clay pots used to age the wine


La Colline
A blend of Semillion Blanc (94%) and Semillion Gris (6%), intended for a single vineyard release. Out of the barrel it was oniony and reductive. It showed the frailty and ever-changing nature of wine; as Chris said "it's a wine, not Coke". He's confident it will work itself out and calm down before bottling. 

After tasting through the barrels, we sat down to taste Chris's latest releases in bottle.

Chris preparing the bottle tasting
Cartology 2014

The bottle hadn't yet been labelled, so no picture. 89% Chenin Blanc, 11% Semillion. The Semillion comes from vines that are 80 years old, though the age of the vines isn't as important to Chris as the site they come from. Wonderfully complex, the wine had a touch of cantaloupe and peach stone on the nose with succulent honeysuckle and tangerine following through on the palate. A comprehensive, bright wine, with a beautiful concentration of flavour.

Radio Lazarus 2014

Delicate blossom and white pepper on the nose, the wine became fuller and richer on the palate. Ripe tropical fruits, soft mango and pineapple added a juicy weight and depth. Wonderfully textured, rich and creamy with a fresh acidity to create balance.



Magnetic North Makstok

Such an intriguing wine. Layer after layer of flavour bursts from the glass, elderflower and citrus fruits mingle with powerful, earthy fynbos and swathes of honey are cut through by an electric acidity. The wine is intense but retains a delicate nature; it is stunning.



Arrowheart Semillion 2014

Bronze in colour, the wine displays an unusual savoury nose. There is caramel and toffee, and also notes of Parmesan cheese. The palate is dominated by fleshy, palatial red apple and tangerine and is nicely rounded on the finish.

_____________________________________________________________________

Chris is a perfectionist, this quality comes through in his wines, from the site selection right through to the final packaging. This is something I found out first hand. Chris seals his bottles with wax, he blends different colours to ensure he gets the perfect shade and he also adds beeswax to get the right consistency. The wax is melted in a 6l slow cooker, and all the seals are done by hand.


Chris let me try my hand at sealing a bottle, and it is much harder than it looks. Despite the tricky technique, I gave it my best shot and was pleasantly surprised at the result.



Chris however, was not as impressed. My attempt wasn't good enough to be labelled and sold. Unfortunately I had no choice but to take it home and drink it.


http://www.alheitvineyards.co.za/home/
@bobbyfishel

Le Quartier Francais- The Tasting Room.

The food at The Tasting Room, Le Quartier Francais, is astoundingly good. The meticulous detail was a joy to behold and every dish was theatrical. There was dry ice smoke, sorrell nori sheets that crumbled under a light sauce and a transparent, crystalline 'snow globe' creating a transient dome over a delicious dessert.
The service was warming and friendly, with the waiting staff expertly relaying the story behind each dish with real passion. 
It was a shame, however, that the wine pairings didn't match up to the intrigue of the food. The wines were good, but they were safe and even borderline dull. I would have enjoyed the meal more if the drinks pushed the boundaries in the same way that Margot Janse's kitchen did brilliantly.  
Regardless of this, the quality of the food cannot be ignored, and I had enjoyed some of the best, most exciting food I have ever eaten. Photos of the dishes below. 



Corn Bread and fresh caramelised butter from 'Daisy', the restaurant's cow. Phallic resemblance was difficult to ignore.



Eugenia granola, pistachio & fig. Ice cold dish with wafts of dry ice smoke and a crunchy texture. 

Broccoli, broccoli, broccoli. Who knew broccoli could be so interesting?  

Confit tomato and potato tumbleweed, buchu (a local herb). 

Octopus, radish, cucumber, sorrel nori (before sauce)


Octopus, radish, cucumber, sorrel nori (after sauce)

Paradyskloof quail's nest, buffalo yoghurt, braised seeds and burnt potato powder

Duck in salt, boere kinders, buckwheat, kapokbos

Salt and kapokbos roasted guava, confit pig, sunflower, pea and fynbos caramel


Salted farmed kabeljou, black mussel, charcoal


'Udderly delicious' caciotta, quince, fermented turnip, smoked honey


Dalewood languedoc custard, vinegar flings, leeks

Baobad, coconut, honeybush, caramel

Snow globe, num num, ginger, samp pops


http://www.lqf.co.za/

@bobbyfishel