New Release Tasting With Crystallum, Thorne Daughters and Momento

Tasting Room at Gabrielskloof

I met with Peter Allan-Finlayson of Crystallum, John Seccombe of Thorne Daughters and Marelise Jansen van Rensberg of Momento to taste through their new releases in the beautiful setting of Gabrielskloof. The wines were of a such a high quality and a joy to taste. Furthermore, the informal nature of the tasting (complete with dogs sitting at our feet) and the humility of the winemakers made for a very enjoyable afternoon.

One of the dogs enjoying the attention. 

Crystallum

Peter-Allan Finlayson is behind Crystallum wines, and had no formal wine making training before starting in 2007. As with all the following producers, his wines are natural ferment (no yeasts are added) and he strives to make quality wines with minimal intervention: "aim for excellence always, but only within the parameters you're given".

The Agnes 2014

100% Chardonnay blended from 4 vineyards. On the nose there are aromas of lemon, tangerine and hints of tropical fruit. A fleshy, waxy pallet is balanced by fresh acidity and a subtle hint of spice, resulting from the wine having 10% new oak contact.

Agnes 2014

Clay Shales 2014

100% Chardonnay from a single vineyard. The wine is taut and focused, tighter than the Agnes but by no means austere. A shimmering purity comes from top notes of concentrated lemon juice, lime rind and crushed shells. Stone fruit flavours merge with the slightest hint of nuttiness and burnt caramel to add complexity to the finish. An utter joy to drink.

Clay Shales 2014

Peter Max 2014

100% Pinot Noir blended from different vineyards. Pale ruby in the glass, the nose is intensely floral and perfumed. 2014 was a cool vintage and this shows in the wine; green herbs and a high acidity make the wine light and fresh, though there is enough bright strawberry and vivid red fruit flavours to prevent the wine from being unripe. Elegant and finessed.

Peter Max 2014

Cuvee Cinema 2014

100% Pinot Noir from a single vineyard. 30% of the grapes were pressed whole bunch (without the removal of the stems). There is an intriguing earthiness to the wine, tree bark entwines with black cherry and dark fruits. The dark flavours are rich and the body is velvet-smooth, offset by crunchy tannin that creates a completely enthralling edginess. 

Paradisum 2012

A Rhone blend, consisting of 40% Syrah, 30% Grenache and 30% Mouvedre. This is deeper in colour than the Pinot Noirs, rich ruby circled by a purple tinge. Violet and stewed plum on the nose, the entrance is silky smooth and the fruit flavours are concentrated and rich. However, as with the Cuvee Cinema there are crunchy tannins that create a lucid freshness; the wine bounces around the mouth and has a tight, grippy finish. The wine is serious, but has an endearing playful edge.

Paradisum 2012

Thorne & Daughters

Thorne & Daughters was started in 2012 by John Seccombe and his wife, Tasha. They aim to make wines that are "simple, honest and gentle; wines that tell a story".  They also take stunning photographs, and they are well worth looking through on their website: http://thorneanddaughters.com/ 

We tasted through what is only their second vintage.

Rocking Horse 2014

A blend of Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Semillion Blanc and Rousanne. It is a very aromatic wine, with blossom, vanilla flower and peach pit aromas gently making way for richer notes of candle wax and almond. The wine has a creaminess to the texture, with the Rousanne adding broadness to the body. The finish is accompanied by a fine tannic grip, meaning the wine has beautiful structure supporting the complex layers of flavour and aromatics. 

Zoetrope 2014

Chardonnay, from 30 year old bush vines in Bot River. Due to farming issues, there will be no 2015 vintage of this wine. On the nose, razor-sharp concentrated lemon bursts from the glass, before orange peel and crystallised citrus fruits provide gentler layers of complexity. The wine is juicy and mouthwatering, but delicate and classy- a real stand out. 

Rocking Horse and Zoetrope 2014

Momento

Before meeting Marelise and tasting through her wines, I was unfamiliar and had never tried the Momento wines before; I'm very, very glad that's now rectified. Marelise used to be the winemaker at Beaumont before starting up Momento in 2011.

Momento white 2013

This was Marelise's first white release. The grapes are sourced from Bot River and the wine is made up of 93% Chenin Blanc and 7% Verdelho. A floral nose, blossom and lime rind being noticeable flavours. The wine spent 10 months on the lees and was aged in old 400l oak barrels which imparted no real flavour but allowed the wine to develop nicely, adding a complexity and depth. 

Momento white 2014

The grapes for the '14 were sourced from a mixture of Bot River, Darling and Swartland vineyards. Verdelho plays a more prominent role in this vintage, with the Chenin Blanc/Verdelho split being 75% to 15%. The aromatics are more intense than the previous vintage, with dried apricots and sweet orange peel on the nose leading to a fleshy pallet, cut through by a crisp acidity. 

Momento Tinta Barocca 2013

There are only 2000 bottles of the Tinta Barocca made per year. The grapes come from 40 yr old bush vines and the wine spends 15 months in old, French Oak barrels. Early harvest and some whole bunch pressing, along with only 2 punchdowns for minimal extraction leads to a remarkably fresh wine. Elegant, perfumed aromas of violet and lavender fall into earthy garden plums and baked rhubarb on the pallet. The vivid and unusual flavours are unexpected, the firm tannin is absorbed beautifully and the wine is thoroughly enjoyable. 

The aftermath of the tasting. 

@bobbyfishel

Vallana Tasting with Marina Fogarty

Yesterday I was lucky enough to attend a lunch and tasting with Marina Fogarty, the 5th generation winemaker at Vallana. The lunch was held at Dehesa http://www.dehesa.co.uk/ who provided a vast selection of unusual but delicious tapas dishes to match the wines (full menu below).

Dehesa Tapas Menu

The Vallana winery is in Alto Piedmonte, a Unesco world heritage site that is situated approximately 100 miles North of the Langhe, and the illustrious Barolo and Barbaresco appellations. It lies in the foothills of the Alps, and the cooling mountain breezes, volcanic soils and the moderating presence of lakes create the perfect environment for the ripening of Nebbiolo (or Spanna, as it is locally known).


Marina practices the traditional vinification methods of her forebears, fermenting the wines in concrete vessels designed by her grandfather in the 1960s, and these methods preserve a pure varietal expression in the wines. She took us through various vintages of her 3 wines, Spanna, Boca and Gattinara, with each displaying noticeable differences in character, but retaining a common theme of freshness and elegance.

Spanna 2011

From 7-10 year old vines, 90% Nebbiolo and 10% Vespolina (a local variety that is a relative of Nebbiolo). 2011 was a particularly warm vintage, and the grapes were picked 20 days earlier than usual to retain natural acidity. The wine is young, with bubblegum characteristics and displays fresh red fruit and crushed herbs, with the Vespolina adding notes of spice and black pepper. The tannin is noticeable but well balanced. It is uncomplicated and enjoyable to drink but, as with most of the Vallana portfolio, should develop well with extended cellar time.

Spanna 2004

A blend of Nebbiolo and Vespolina. There is still an abundance of spice and red primary fruit on the nose, but tertiary dried fruit flavours are more significant here. The wine is still young and bright; the complexity is developing and should continue to do so over time.

Boca 2007

65% Nebbiolo, 20% Vespolina and 15% Uva Rara (an indigenous variety). Boca is the most northern Piedmont region, and the vines that make this wine are more shielded from the sun and receive less of the cooling breezes. It is an elegant wine, with perfumed aromas of rose and cherry, but was slightly closed and for me, provided less enjoyment than the others.

Gattinara 2006

The vineyards of Gattinara lie just north of the small village of Gattinara, home to approximately 9000 people. The vines lie on exposed slopes, allowing for the sun to ripen the grapes and the cool breezes to retain acidity. The high thermal excursion between night and day is ideal for the ripening of Nebbiolo; thus the Vallana Gattinara is 100% from this grape. The vineyard was granted DOCG status in 1991 and consequently is subject to the appellation laws, including hillside vineyards, low yields and 3 years of bottle aging, including 18 months in oak barrels. The wine is noticeably more powerful, with prominent tannin and pronounced aromatics. Smooth red fruits and peppercorn dance on the nose. The wine is fresh and opulently flavoured, but still young and less refined than the older vintages.

Gattinara 1998

My stand out wine of the tasting. Garden-fresh strawberry and red cherry merge effortlessly into undertones of tar and tobacco. Complex layers of flavour slide gracefully into silky tannin and a long, elegant finish. A harmonious wine that manages to be deep and brooding but so alive at the same time. Remarkably drinkable.

Gattinara 1996

Bursting with wild strawberries and mouthwatering summer fruit. I found it to have less intrigue than the '98, but it was delicious and approachable. The '96 was Marina's favourite, due to it's typicality of the Gattinara wine and she described it as "unmistakably recognisable".

Spanna 1985

We were treated to a final, special wine from Marina before the end of the tasting. I always find it humbling to taste a wine that was bottled before I was born, and this was certainly the case here. A conveyor belt of flavours: earth, mint, baked cherry and mushroom with the most subtle of tannins. Showing extremely well after 30 years in bottle.


The flight was a delight to taste through, and showed consistent elegance and freshness. The wines may not be as complex or intense as their celebrated Barolo counterparts, but they shone with a delightful vibrancy and accessibility.

@bobbyfishel

Recap: When Sager + Wilde met Typing Room.

It's taken me a bit longer than I would've liked to get this up, but finally here it is, a recap of when Sager + Wilde met Typing Room on 18th March for a night of quite brilliant food and wine.

The evening started in the understated yet effortlessly stylish bar Peg and Patriot, situated next to Typing Room. The cocktail list was unusual and inventive, but only having time for one I opted for the Vesgroni- an invigorating drink made with Campari, Gin, Americano and Konik's Tail vodka.

Vesgroni

When seated in the restaurant, facing the theatrical open kitchen, we were served 'snacks'. These included profiteroles with courgette and basil cream filling, crispy fish skins with emulsions and pigs trotter croquettes, paired with 'Adonis': a refreshing sherry based cocktail. 

Pigs Trotters

Fish Skin

Profiteroles

                                                            

The next course of IPA Sourdough Bread and marmite butter was simple but staggeringly rich in flavour, and as Marina O'Loughlin wrote "worthy of stalking obsession".  The wine pairing was equally as flavoursome: The Extra Brut Beaux Hauts 1992 from the Russian River Valley, California. This was disgorged in 2010 after spending 18 years on the lees and was brimming with layer after layer of complex flavours such as caramel, butterscotch and baked bread, with a crisp acidity giving the wine an amazing freshness after 22 years. Unforgettable and unique.

IPA Sourdough, Marmite Butter & Chicken Skin butter

The next course of Mackerel, Passion Fruit and Kohlrabi (a cultivar of cabbage) was served with one of my all time favourite wines: Scholium Project 'Prince In His Caves', 2011. The Scholium Project was started in California in 2000 by Abe Schoener, a one-time philosophy teacher. See http://www.scholiumwines.com/ for more details. There were only 276 cases made of the 2011 'Prince in His Caves'; a skin contact Sauvignon Blanc with no de-stemming before fermentation. A deep orange colour, the wine is smoky and full-flavoured with a stunning, sharp citrus edge. It is truly remarkable.

Following this was Celeriac, foie gras, mustard and walnut, served with the first red wine of the night: a delicate and elegant Burgundy from Pierre Morey, who is also the vingeron at Domaine Leflaive. The wine was sourced from vines planted in 1964, located in the village of Monthelie, between Mersault and Volnay and produced using biodynamic principles. 

The fifth course of the evening was a fascinating take on the humble cauliflower, and was a shining example of the intricate and innovative cooking taking place in Lee Westcott's kitchen at Typing Room. The cauliflower was crunchy and deep fried, tart and raw and contrasted exquisitely with creamy puree and whole chargrilled florets. The dish was served with grapes, capers and mint; and provided a circuitous tour of taste and texture. 

The wine pairing with this course was also something to savour. JJ Prum is one of the best respected estates in Mosel, Germany, and this intense yet harmonious 2007 Riesling from the steep, rocky Wehlener Sonnenuhr vineyard displayed exactly why. 

Yeasted Cauliflower, Grapes, Capers & Mint

The second fish course of the evening, halibut, white asparagus, curry and pine was a thought-provoking dish with the curry giving an unusual tang to the mild, moist halibut. This was matched by a wine from one of South Africa's most celebrated producers (and one of my go-to favourites) Eben Sadie. The 2013 'Skerpioen' is a blend of Chenin Blanc and Palomino from 66 year old vines in the Swartland. The Palomino grape, predominantly used in sherry, gives an intriguing Manzanilla profile that compliments the racing acidity of the Chenin, leading to a bold and fascinating wine with a relentless finish.

Halibut, white asparagus, curry & pine

Charred lamb, aubergine and yoghurt was the menu's meat course, and the lamb was tender and rare; perfectly cooked. 'Les Perriers' Cabernet Franc 1989 from Bourgeuil in the Loire was the wine of choice for the penultimate course, and was stunningly alive and elegant with age. 

By this point, I was feeling full; well fed and well drunk, and the dessert of sheep's yoghurt, dill and apple was a light dish that was full of clean, uplifting flavours. The final wine of the evening was Champagne from the world-renowned Jacques Selosse. The 'Initiale' NV Brut Blanc de Blancs was shimmering with purity, vivid and prismatic with flavour and utterly lifegiving. A thrilling way to end a mesmerising journey. 

The menu in full:

Snacks

Adonis

IPA sourdough & marmite butter

Extra Brut Beaux Hauts 1992 / Russian River Valley

Mackerel, passion fruit & kohlrabi

'Prince In His Caves' Scholium Project 2011 / Sonoma County

Celeriac, foie gras, mustard & walnut

Pinot Noir 'Monthelie' Pierre Morey 2004 / Burgundy

Yeasted cauliflower, raisins, capers & mint

Riesling 'Wehlener Sonnenuhr' JJ Prum 2007 / Mosel

Halibut, white asparagus, curry & pine

Chenin Blanc 'Skerpioen' The Sadie Family 2013 / Swartland

Charred lamb, aubergine & yoghurt

Bourgeuil 'Les Perrieres' 1989 / Loire

Sheep's yoghurt, dill & apple

Blanc de Blancs Brut 'Initiale' Jacques Selosse NV / Champagne

http://www.sagerandwilde.com/

http://www.typingroom.com/

@bobbyfishel

Silverthorn: The Green Man 2012

I've been consistently impressed with the quality and intrigue of Cap Classique wines, and the 100% Chardonnay 'Green Man' from John Loubser at Silverthorn is one of my stand-out favourites.

In the glass there is an arresting pale straw colour with a golden hue, followed by notes of green apple, honeysuckle and blossom on the nose. The aromas are subtle, but there is a complexity here that derives from barrel aging and 30 months spent on the lees before disgorgement.

The complex brioche flavour compliments the fine, persistent mousse and creamy, rich mouthfeel that is cut through by a striking acidity and a long, long finish. The lime-rich, shale soils at Silverthorn are not dissimilar to those of Champagne, and at R205 (£11.50) a bottle this wine is an absolute steal; matching up to Champagne quality at a fraction of the price.

There were only 7000 bottles made, so if you can get your hands on one you certainly won't be disappointed.

Wine bought from http://www.winecellar.co.za/

@bobbyfishel