Vallana Tasting with Marina Fogarty

Yesterday I was lucky enough to attend a lunch and tasting with Marina Fogarty, the 5th generation winemaker at Vallana. The lunch was held at Dehesa http://www.dehesa.co.uk/ who provided a vast selection of unusual but delicious tapas dishes to match the wines (full menu below).

Dehesa Tapas Menu

The Vallana winery is in Alto Piedmonte, a Unesco world heritage site that is situated approximately 100 miles North of the Langhe, and the illustrious Barolo and Barbaresco appellations. It lies in the foothills of the Alps, and the cooling mountain breezes, volcanic soils and the moderating presence of lakes create the perfect environment for the ripening of Nebbiolo (or Spanna, as it is locally known).


Marina practices the traditional vinification methods of her forebears, fermenting the wines in concrete vessels designed by her grandfather in the 1960s, and these methods preserve a pure varietal expression in the wines. She took us through various vintages of her 3 wines, Spanna, Boca and Gattinara, with each displaying noticeable differences in character, but retaining a common theme of freshness and elegance.

Spanna 2011

From 7-10 year old vines, 90% Nebbiolo and 10% Vespolina (a local variety that is a relative of Nebbiolo). 2011 was a particularly warm vintage, and the grapes were picked 20 days earlier than usual to retain natural acidity. The wine is young, with bubblegum characteristics and displays fresh red fruit and crushed herbs, with the Vespolina adding notes of spice and black pepper. The tannin is noticeable but well balanced. It is uncomplicated and enjoyable to drink but, as with most of the Vallana portfolio, should develop well with extended cellar time.

Spanna 2004

A blend of Nebbiolo and Vespolina. There is still an abundance of spice and red primary fruit on the nose, but tertiary dried fruit flavours are more significant here. The wine is still young and bright; the complexity is developing and should continue to do so over time.

Boca 2007

65% Nebbiolo, 20% Vespolina and 15% Uva Rara (an indigenous variety). Boca is the most northern Piedmont region, and the vines that make this wine are more shielded from the sun and receive less of the cooling breezes. It is an elegant wine, with perfumed aromas of rose and cherry, but was slightly closed and for me, provided less enjoyment than the others.

Gattinara 2006

The vineyards of Gattinara lie just north of the small village of Gattinara, home to approximately 9000 people. The vines lie on exposed slopes, allowing for the sun to ripen the grapes and the cool breezes to retain acidity. The high thermal excursion between night and day is ideal for the ripening of Nebbiolo; thus the Vallana Gattinara is 100% from this grape. The vineyard was granted DOCG status in 1991 and consequently is subject to the appellation laws, including hillside vineyards, low yields and 3 years of bottle aging, including 18 months in oak barrels. The wine is noticeably more powerful, with prominent tannin and pronounced aromatics. Smooth red fruits and peppercorn dance on the nose. The wine is fresh and opulently flavoured, but still young and less refined than the older vintages.

Gattinara 1998

My stand out wine of the tasting. Garden-fresh strawberry and red cherry merge effortlessly into undertones of tar and tobacco. Complex layers of flavour slide gracefully into silky tannin and a long, elegant finish. A harmonious wine that manages to be deep and brooding but so alive at the same time. Remarkably drinkable.

Gattinara 1996

Bursting with wild strawberries and mouthwatering summer fruit. I found it to have less intrigue than the '98, but it was delicious and approachable. The '96 was Marina's favourite, due to it's typicality of the Gattinara wine and she described it as "unmistakably recognisable".

Spanna 1985

We were treated to a final, special wine from Marina before the end of the tasting. I always find it humbling to taste a wine that was bottled before I was born, and this was certainly the case here. A conveyor belt of flavours: earth, mint, baked cherry and mushroom with the most subtle of tannins. Showing extremely well after 30 years in bottle.


The flight was a delight to taste through, and showed consistent elegance and freshness. The wines may not be as complex or intense as their celebrated Barolo counterparts, but they shone with a delightful vibrancy and accessibility.

@bobbyfishel