A Lesson in Farming and Fantastic Food at Waterkloof

Paul Boutinot, custodian of Waterkloof wines, searched for 10 years before he managed to find the perfect site for Waterkloof. Situated 300m above sea level with a close proximity to the sea, the area benefits from cooling breezes. The combination of altitude and cooling winds means that Waterkloof is around 4 degrees centigrade cooler than the average temperature in Stellenbosch. As a result, the grapes can retain their natural acidity and ripen slowly, allowing for the wines to display the elegance of a cooler climate. Furthermore, high wind speeds, reaching up to 50km/h prevent the build up of fungal infection on the vines. Thus it is a perfect location for biodynamic farming, a method in which Waterkloof is certified. Waterkloof describe biodynamic farming as "an imperfect, natural agricultural process of cultivation based on the “sensitive intelligence of an interconnected natural world. As Biodynamic farmers, we work to create a diverse, balanced ecosystem that generates health and fertility as much as possible from within the farm itself". 
http://www.waterkloofwines.co.za/biodynamic-farming/biodynamic-organic-farming/
A kind of organics on steroids, if you like.

I spent the day with Christiaan Loots, the farm manager at Waterkloof and was given a fascinating lesson in all things organic and biodynamic. Unfortunately when I arrived the weather was not being kind. Clouds pervaded the farm and the fog blanketing the vineyards meant the spectacular views were lost.

The cellar at Waterkloof in the distance, shrouded in fog

Cloudy view over the vineyards

Despite the weather, Christiaan and I got into the world-weary bakkie (aka pick-up truck) affectionately known as 'the mule' and began our tour of the farm. He explained to me how as a biodynamic farmer he spends most of his time out on the farm opposed to in his office: "as a regular farmer, you are removed from the farm and nature like some kind of supreme being. As a biodynamic farmer you work within the systems of nature to create vitality." 80% of the labour on the farm is done by horses, with each horse able to pull around 1.6 tonnes of grapes each during harvest. Not only are they strong, but they are quick learners too, with Christiaan saying he can train a horse to plough in 3 weeks. When not working they have an abundance of space to run and graze, "they may be workers but they also need time just to be horses."

Ploughs used by the horses 

Not only are there horses on the farm, but cows, chickens and sheep. All of which play an important part in maintaining the biodynamic status.

The chicken 'coop' (more of a house, really)

The eggs laid by the chickens go straight for use in the fantastic restaurant at Waterkloof (more about that later). The shells from the eggs are combined with dung from lactating cows and left in stone pits for 3 months. This creates one of the most diverse micro-bacterial spray substances, and is sprayed over the vines at a rate of 1kg per hectare.

Christiaan opening the stone pits 

Getting our hands amongst the dungy, earthworm-filled substance

The stone pits where the eggshells and dung are left

Cow dung is utilised again when added to sheep faeces, a substance that is extremely high in nitrogen and healthy microbes. This is used as a compost across the farm, and when Christiaan showed me the composting heap, I noticed a remarkable lack of flies, which he puts down to the natural antibiotics in the mix.

Sheep roaming the farm

Compost heap

Christiaan then took me into a small room in an out-house, where more ingenious sprays and fertilisers are concocted. One sounded particularly unpleasant. Fish emulsion from leftovers at the restaurant are taken and added to microbes and sugar and then left in the sun. The microbes take over and the fish ferments. Despite how it sounded, the mixture didn't smell unpleasant, more like a mild fish oil. Due to the healthy bacteria, the fish doesn't putrify. Another mixture created by Christiaan is an insecticide made from chilli and garlic- far removed from the harsh chemicals found in most commercial farming environments.

Fish emulsion

Chilli and garlic insecticide

It was fascinating to see how the farm could support itself in such a way, exist as a living entity, with the utmost care taken by Christiaan and his farming team to look after the soils, vines and animals in the most natural way possible. This method of farming is conveyed in the winemaking also, which is done entirely using natural fermentation; a celebration of the biodynamic farm and a true expression of site. Christiaan dropped me off at the beautiful tasting lounge, where I was met by the attentive and enthusiastic Zandri to taste through some of the wines. Notes below:

Tasting Lounge at Waterkloof

Circumstance Sauvignon Blanc 2014

A nice change from the predictable, mass produced Sauvignon Blanc. Aged in 600 litre old oak barrels, there was white pepper, gooseberry and elderflower on the nose, followed by a weighty, textured palate with a mineral core. It was crisp and refreshing, but had enough depth to create substance. 

Circle of Life 2012

A blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc and Semillon. Notes of lime, peach and a slight butteriness on the nose. On the palate there are ripe tropical fruits and a fresh acidity.

Waterkloof Sauvignon Blanc 2014

A complex and intriguing example of Sauvignon Blanc, this is the only wine that carries the 'Waterkloof' name. There are lime and elderflower aromas like the Circumstance, but earthy, fynbos notes lend a depth and complexity to the concentrated citrus flavours. 

Seriously Cool Cinsault 2014

The first red wine I tasted, the Cinsault was a light, pale ruby colour with pronounced red berries and cherry on the nose. The palate displayed vibrant strawberry and red fruit flavours. A simple wine that is very fresh and fun to drink.

Circle of Life Red Blend 2010

A blend of Merlot, Syrah and Petit Verdot. 50% whole bunch press and aged for 2 years in the bottle before release. The nose displayed dark plum and spice, with an earthy, complex palate giving complexity to the soft, juicy fruits and integrated tannin.

Circumstance Syrah 2010

Whole bunch fermented in open topped wooden containers. A dark, brooding nose is lifted by floral, white pepper notes. There is lavender and soft plum on the richly textured palate followed by a grippy tannin.

Circumstance Cabernet Franc 2012

Blackberry and pepper aromas are lifted by green, herbal notes. It is full bodied and deep with elegant, blackcurrant fruits and crunchy tannin.

Circumstance Cabernet Sauvignon 2010

A serious wine with good structure and rich flavours. Blackcurrant leaf and plum on the nose, followed by ripe, opulent primary fruit on the palate, nicely rounded with a slightly toasty finish resulting from the 22 months spent in oak.

Circumstance Cabernet Franc

 After the tasting, I had time to enjoy lunch in the stunning restaurant. The views were breathtaking and the food was quite brilliant, prepared with innovation and meticulous care by Chef Gregory Czarnecki and his kitchen. I can't speak highly enough of the restaurant and can't wait to visit again. Pictures below.

Restaurant at Waterkloof

The view from the table

The Food

Amuse bouche of rare beef, apple puree and apple foam

Stunning: Textures of peas with truffled buttermilk

Scottish Salmon with dill oil and beetroot cremeux

Yellowtail with squid ink vinaigrette and red pepper crumbs

Duck 'a l'orange', confit orange and sultana fritter

Langbaken Karoo Blue cheese, cauliflower and tonka with crackling and pecan nut

Pre-dessert: Chocolate three ways with ice-cream 

Quince and Verjuice Terrine, buffalo yoghurt, toffee powder and pollen

I somehow managed to eat it all, the food was just too good to leave. Needless to say I was stuffed, and needed a strong espresso before I was fit to be on my way.

Thank you to the team at Waterkloof for your impeccable hospitality.


@bobbyfishel

http://www.waterkloofwines.co.za/