Le Lude Cap Classique

Nestled in the mountains, situated only a few minutes from the centre of Franschoek, at the end of a recently planted alleyway of trees and vineyards lies the Le Lude cellar. A family winery, founded in 2009 by the much celebrated Nic and Ferda Barrow, Le Lude was created with the aim of producing the finest Cap Classique wines.

The long driveway to the entrance gives a sense of grandiose, which is married by the imposing glass arches and opulent marble floors that create the entrance to the cellar. The owners live on the farm, and there will also be a guest house and restaurant that will aim to open around September this year. There is a small orchard in the back, cared for by Ferda that will supply the kitchen with fresh ingredients.

There are building works going on at the farm and there is still a lot of work to do before completion, but the ambition and meticulous attention to detail is already clear to see.

After a quick walk around the farm, I was joined by Paul Gerber, winemaker at Le Lude for a tour of the cellar and a tasting of the wines. Once a Mathematics teacher, Paul now spends a significant amount of time in Champagne, taking tips and learning from the very best in sparkling wine production. His enthusiasm and respect for tradition is infectious and he seems to have found a happy equilibrium with the owners, who are prepared to invest in the strive for quality and heritage over immediate financial returns.

Paul explained how in 2009, when the farm was bought, it was little more than an overgrown plum orchard. Since then, the 3 major Champagne varieties (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier) have been planted. These grapes have not been used in any of the wines so far, with Paul choosing his grapes from specially selected plots all over the Western Cape. The first harvest was in 2012, and all the grapes are hand picked and placed in shallow baskets to prevent the grapes from becoming bruised. The wine is then left to mature for 3 years, which will be a minimum for the Le Lude range. I'll explain a bit more about Le Lude's unique methods of maturation a bit later on.

I asked Paul what he looks for when choosing the grapes, and he told me that acidity levels are key. Finding grapes with the right backbone of acidity is essential, alongside good levels of ripeness. He said that "once you have your acidity, you can use blending to build your elegance".

We moved into the cellar, where the barrels were being cleaned, and the theme of attention to detail is clear once again- this is a cellar custom made for sparkling wine production, with no expense spared. The barrels come from a single supplier in Champagne, and all the bottles, branded with the Le Lude logo, are imported from Italy. The real star of the show however, is the specially designed underground cellar, where the bottles, shrouded in dust as if they've been there for centuries, lie in perfect, cool conditions to mature before release.

We went downstairs, greeted by a generous platter of bread, meat and cheese to taste through the blending components of the wines.

The first wines we tasted were a comparison of Chardonnay base wines, one from Robertson and one from Bonnievale. This was fascinating to see, as the benefits of blending became immediately obvious. The Robertson wine had an intense, fresh acidity, whereas the wine from Bonnievale had a much rounder, creamier texture and flavour. When blended together, these two wines would compliment each other well. Next we tried a Pinot Noir from Robertson, which had a lovely texture and a slightly lower acidity than the two Chardonnays, displaying strawberries and cream and subtle cherry fruits on the palate.

The reserve wines from 2012 and 2013 were up next. Paul explained that in 2012, all the barrels used were brand new and this was extremely obvious in the wine. The wood was very powerful, with rich, toasty notes dominating the flavour profile, becoming slightly less prominent in the 2013 reserve. Both of these wines will be used as blending components.

Paul is experimenting with 'Agrafe' maturation in the wines, and Le Lude is the first and currently the only winery in South Africa to do this. The majority of Cap Classique/Champagne wines are matured under crown cap (the caps you see on beer bottles) before being disgorged and then sealed with cork. Agrafe, however, is where the wine is matured under a cork that is stapled in (see picture below), an old and expensive tradition used in Champagne.

We tried the 2012 Brut aged under crown cap against the 2012 Brut aged under cork, and the results were remarkable.  The crown cap showed bright citrus fruit and a good acidity, with a focused palate and a linear, taut finish. The cork was markedly different, with layers and layers of flavour, there was definitely more complexity here and it was fascinating to see.

Of course, this difference may have been more noticeable as I was told which was which beforehand. Paul decided to put my palate to the test and try the 2012 Rosé, crown and cork, blind. This put me on the spot, but I'm pleased to say the difference was so noticeable once again that it was easy enough to spot. The crown cap seal was fresh and bright, with concentrated strawberry and cherry flavours, whereas the cork seal had developed a more complex palate with blackcurrant fruits and aniseed providing a depth of flavour to the bright, juicy red fruits.

Both the Rosé and the Brut are planned for release in October 2015 and will go on sale at around R175 per bottle. The wines certainly aren't cheap, but they're not overtly expensive either, and I consider them to be a real bargain when you consider the quality levels that these wines are reaching.

The final wine we tasted was the Prestige Cuveé (not yet named). It is planned for release in 2017, when it would have had 5 years maturation in the cellar. It is a blend of the best tanks and will be Le Lude's flagship wine. There was a slight nuttiness on the nose, with gentle marzipan notes adding a depth to the blossom and whiteflower aromas. On the palate there was a bracing acidity, which autolysis will soften over time. The flavours had a real density, with lemon rind and almond washing over the tongue in waves. Rather than picking out individual components though, the wine shone as an experience. It was beautifully finessed, and though it was very acidic it was ready to drink now. With another 2 years in bottle it should develop a stunning flavour profile and complexity, becoming a brilliant, balanced wine that becomes the shining light in South Africa's sparkling wine scene; the very best in Cap Classique.

http://www.lelude.co.za/

@bobbyfishel

A Visit To Steenberg

The Steenberg winery is based at the oldest farm in Cape Town, established in 1682. Steenberg (meaning stone mountain) is in Constantia, only 20 minutes from the centre of Cape Town. On site there is a five-star hotel, a fine-dining restaurant, Tapas Bistro and the cellar.

Situated on a peninsula with close proximity to the sea, the east-facing slopes of the vineyards receive the sun in the morning but are shrouded in shadow throughout the afternoon. This means the climate is cooler than most areas, and as a result white varieties thrive here, with 70% of the wine made being Sauvignon Blanc/Semillion blends. The soils suit white cultivars, with a mix of decomposed granite and a fine, white porcelain. The winemaker JD Pretorius and manager John Loubser spoke about the minerality that these soils give to the wines. The vines at Steenberg vary in age, with the oldest being 26 years old.

Sauvignon Blanc and Semillion Vineyards 

Decomposed granite and porcelain soils

I was shown around the Tapas restaurant at Steenberg, called Bistro 1682 and was mightily impressed by the beautiful water features surrounding the outside patio and the stylish decor of the tasting rooms, not to mention a fantastic hanging display over the bar, made from 2700 handcrafted glass grapes.

Bistro 1682

Water features

One of the tasting rooms

Hanging display of glass grapes

The well-equipped, modern winery is attached to the bistro and JD and John showed me the vinification methods of both the still and sparkling wines, before we tasted through the tanks and barrels.

Barrels and tanks in the winery

Winemaker JD Pretorius drawing wine from a barrel

Alongside the Steenberg wines, the winery contains John Loubser's own label MCC (Methode Cap Classique) wines called 'Silverthorn'. I've enthused about the Silverthorn wines before so it was interesting to see how these wines are made. As per the traditional method in Champagne, all these wines are slowly hand turned over an extended period of time before disgorgement, which is a labour intensive process. 

The Silverthorn Wines in bottle

After tasting in the cellar, we moved on to the tasting room upstairs in the Bistro to taste through both the Silverthorn and Steenberg ranges. Notes on the wines below. 

Upstairs tasting room in the bistro

Silverthorn 

Silverthorn (named after the thorns of the Acacia tree) was started by John Loubser in 2004, with the aim of making good quality, boutique Cap Classique wines. In 2004, the first vintage produced 3000 bottles, whereas the production is now 10,000 bottles. A large increase, but still a very small production. There are three wines in the Silverthorn range, a Blanc de Blancs, a Cuvée and a Rosé. 

Green Man 2012

Named after the spirit of the forest, the wine is 100% Chardonnay from Robertson fruit. 10% of the base wine was barrel fermented and the wine spent 30 months on the lees before disgorgement. A steely, citrus nose with a fine mousse and gorgeous, subtle notes of biscuit and toast. This is a remarkably fresh wine, and will reward you more for every year you let it age. 

The Green Man 2012 

Jewell Box 2011

Silverthorn's flagship wine, there were only 3,500 bottles made of this vintage. The name derives from the English astronomer, John Hershaw, in the 1830s nicknaming a star-cluster seen from Cape Town 'Jewell Box'. John (winemaker not 1800s astronomer) states that the idea behind the wine is to capture the African feeling, whilst keeping the product globally resonant. The packaging on all these wines is detailed and meaningful, (my terrible pictures really don't do them justice) with the Jewell Box showing the star cluster on the bottle neck.

Jewell Box star cluster

Details on the cap

The wine is a blend of 60% Chardonnay, 60% Pinot Noir and spent 42 months on the lees. There is juicy red apple fruit balancing out crisp citrus notes and a fantastic complexity of flavour. It evolved and opened whilst in the glass, displaying a nutty, almond and marzipan essence. It is drinking exceptionally well now and I can really see this bottle developing into a truly stunning wine with time to age. 

Jewell Box 2011

Genie

The largest production, with 11,000 bottles made. A non-vintage wine, made from 100% tank-aged Syrah with only a short period on the lees. Showing vibrant raspberry fruit on the nose, with notes of rosewater and turkish delight. This is less serious than the other two, but is a lot of fun to drink and makes for a perfect aperitif. 

Genie NV

Silverthorn Wines in glass 

Steenberg

Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc 2014

100% Sauvignon Blanc, the wine has a slightly discernible sweetness, with a residual sugar of 10.5g/l. It is lively, fruity and fresh with lemon, green apple, pineapple and guava all bursting from the glass, ideal for providing refreshment on a hot day. 

Sparkling Pinot Noir 2012

Made in a lighter style, with the grapes undergoing whole bunch press before fermentation. Pale salmon-pink, strawberries and cream stood out on the nose, following into strawberries and cream once again on the palate. A wine for Wimbledon. 

Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir

Sauvignon Blanc 2014

The fruit for the Steenberg Sauvignon Blanc comes from stressed vines, with small canopies and high winds leading to low yields. On the nose there is goosberry, lime and elderflower. Lime rind and citrus fruit stand out on the palate, with a mineral, flint and gun-smoke character. 

Steenberg Sauvignon Blanc

Rattlesnake 2014

Named after a ship that was used in the battle of Muizenberg in the 1700s, 20% of the wine spent time in new oak. Green apple and lime notes of rounded off by woody aromas and a rich, oily texture. A versatile wine that will pair well with food. 

Rattlesnake 2014

Black Swan 2013

Steenberg's flagship Sauvignon Blanc, with 60% of the grapes coming from the farm's oldest vines. Time on the lees and a years bottle aging, alongside being the only cork sealed Sauvignon Blanc lead to the premium status. White pepper and lime rind on the nose provide lightness to the full-bodied, textural palate and the flinty mineral core. 

The Black Swan 2013

Semillion 2013

Coming from two clones of the Semillion vine, the wine spent 9 months in french oak, including 35% in new oak. There are distinct Asian aromas on the nose, with lemongrass and bean sprouts combing with ripe tangerine. On the palate there is juicy white peach and stone fruits, with a thick, oily texture and a nice acidity to prevent any flabbiness. 

Semillion 2013

Magna Carta 2012

A barrel aged blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillion, this is the most premium wine of the range. Named after the Magna Carta document created by King John in 1215 (800 years ago this year), the wine is seen to be 'the law above the law', like the Magna Carta itself. There is no mention of Steenberg on the label, as the wine is potrayed as an entity unto its own. A wine that will age well for up to twenty years, there are layered citrus aromas and a real textural opulence, cut through by a fine acidity. 

Magna Carta 2012

Nebbiolo 2013

I'd never come across a South African Nebbiolo before, so it was intriguing to see Steenberg's take on the grape. Coming from South Africa's first planting of Nebbiolo in 1994, there is black cherry, rhubarb, dried fruits and rose on the nose. The wine is ethereal in the mouth, like silk fluttering in a breeze, before the oaken notes and huge tannin, typical of Nebbiolo, draws the moisture from your mouth and reminds you of the serious backbone to the wine. Unusual, and extremely enjoyable.

Nebbiolo 2013

Merlot 2011

Lavender, mint and violet on the nose, with soft and velvety plum fruit and hints of dark chocolate given earthiness from herbal, fynbos notes. The wine is weighty but well structured with firm tannin. It will reward some time in the cellar. 

Merlot 2011

Catarina 2013

This is the premium red blend from Steenberg. Named after the original owner of the farm in the 1600s. She was a German woman called Catarina. After her husband died, she disguised herself as a man, decided to set up a farm and began a new life in Cape Town. She met a German Soldier called Hans (who saw through the disguise) and started to farm cattle. Unfortunately for her, the curse of the luckless husband did not leave her behind. A severe drought caused lions to come down from the mountains and eat the cows. Hans was killed by a lion whilst defending his cattle, leaving Catarina alone again. This solitude did not last long, and Catarina shortly found love once more, this time with a hunter. However, her third husband went out on a hunting expedition, only to never return and was pronounced dead after 9 months.

No prizes for guessing what happened next. Catarina married for a fourth time, only for a rogue elephant to trample her desperately unlucky spouse, causing him to suffer the fate of her previous partners. Not to be put off by the four consecutive deaths of her husbands, she married again, to what must have been a very brave/foolish man. The fifth husband, however, avoided death's clammy grasp and managed to outlive Catarina, looking after her 13 children in the process.

After this tale of misery and woe I was more than ready to try the wine. A full-bodied blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, there is an abundance of ripe red fruit on the nose, accompanied by earthy, herbal notes. Weighty and tannic, the wine has a complex depth of flavour and will reward extended cellaring. A wine to die for...

Catarina 2013

After tasting through the wines, John opened a bottle of both the Silverthorn Green Man and Jewel Box from the 2009 vintage, which demonstrated just how well these wines will reward time in cellar. To go with the wines we were served a vast array of tapas from the Bistro 1682 kitchen. They were utterly delicious, and there was enough food for myself, John, JD, Catarina and all of her husbands. I ate until I was fit to burst, thanked John and JD for their hospitality and left feeling very full and very happy.


http://www.steenbergfarm.com/

@bobbyfishel

Botanica Wines

On a cold, wet and windy day in the Western Cape I drove to Protea Heights Farm in Stellenbosch to meet Ginny Povall from Botanica Wines.

Ginny is from Boston in America; she decided to pack her bags and leave her former life behind her in order to pursue a new vocation- making wine. Before she bought her farm she had no formal wine making experience or training. She learnt through weekend courses and a whole lot of intuition, completing her first harvest in 2008. She is now making award winning wines which is a testament to her endeavor and bravery. We met at her beautiful guesthouse 'Sugarbird Manor' to taste through her wines in peaceful tranquility as the pitter-patter of the rain and her dozing cats created an ambiance of shelter and safety from the elements.

View from Sugarbird Manor

 

Tasting Room

Mary Delaney Collection Chenin Blanc 2013

100% Chenin Blanc sourced from the much revered Skurfberg mountain. The wine was harvested when the grapes were extremely ripe, and has an alcohol level sitting at 14%. Half of the wine was aged in 400 litre oak barrels with the other half in stainless steel tank, blended together before bottling. There is rich, opulent fruit on the nose with crisp citrus and refreshing white pear mingling with fleshy mango and peach. A lush, weighty mouthfeel is nicely balanced by a taut acidity. 

Chenin Blanc 2013

The labels on the bottles are inspired by the artwork of Mary Delaney, who created the images on Ginny's packaging in the 1700s from tiny pieces of cut paper. Fortunately, Ginny managed to obtain a license to use the artwork on her labels. 

Mary Delaney Collection Pinot Noir 2013

Deep in colour for a Pinot Noir, once again the opulent fruit of the wine stands out. Juicy red strawberry and cherry are layered beneath alluring notes of tart rhubarb and damson. An understated wood influence provides complexity, with subtle tannin giving a structural grip on the finish. 13% alcohol. 

Pinot Noir 2013

Big Flower 2015

A rosé made from a blend of Chenin Blanc and Petit Verdot. Pale salmon in the glass, the nose is pronounced and juicy with expressive guava and grapefruit aromas being followed by mouthwatering watermelon and strawberry. The wine had been open for three days and was still showing very well: clean, fresh and fun to drink. 

Big Flower 2015

Merlot 'Under the Leaves' 2014

Only just bottled and not yet labelled, made from Merlot grapes grown on Ginny's farm. The clay soils suit Merlot, and the grapes were picked at 3 different times to get a balance of acidity and riper flavours. The farm is small, only 5 hectares and Ginny farms intensively and organically. The wine has an abundance of primary fruit on the nose, with plum and dark cherry standing out. A smooth, soft entry and rich mouthfeel is given a structural backbone by grippy tannins. 

http://www.botanicawines.com/

@bobbyfishel 

The Winery of Good Hope

The Winery of Good Hope was established in 1998 by Ben Radford and Alex Dale. The winery produces 4 ranges of wine, with the Radford Dale range being the premium.  The cellar is situated in the Helderberg Mountains, 4 kilometres from the ocean. As a result, the vines benefit from cooling breezes, preventing the grapes from becoming overripe and allowing the wines to retain freshness.

I was met by Angela Jordaan, who is part of the sales team, for a tour of the farm and cellar. We tasted new vintages in barrel with winemaker Jacques De Klerk before tasting through the Radford Dale range in bottle. Jacques makes his own fantastic Chenin Blanc under the 'Reverie' label and it is well worth seeking out.

Notes on the Radford Dale Range below.

2013 Chardonnay

The grapes came from 20 year old vines that were harvested in two pickings, one week apart. This method of picking the grapes allows for the freshness and high acidity of the early picking to blend with the riper flavours of the later pick, creating complexity and balance in the wine. The wine was fermented and matured in large oak barrels, with 10% being new wood. There is concentrated lemon rind on the nose, fleshed out by a slight buttery creaminess. On the palate the ripe citrus fruits and crisp acidity lend freshness to the weighty, textured mouthfeel. 

2013 Freedom Pinot Noir

Sourced from 3 different vineyards in the cooler climate of Elgin, this is a wine that demonstrates elegance and finesse over ripeness and opulence. Aromatic red berries and wild strawberry on the nose are given depth by earthier, herbal flavours. The wine is well balanced and soft, integrated tannin provides a slight grip on the finish. 

2014 Nudity Syrah

Sourced from 30 year old vines in an organic single vineyard on the Paardeberg mountain, the wine has absolutely no sulphur addition. It is a remarkable wine, with vibrant, expressive black cherry on the nose and and layer after layer of flavour on the palate. The wine has a textural elasticity, it reverberates around the mouth delivering concentrated, pure fruit and finishes with finessed tannin.

2013 Black Rock

A blend of Syrah, Carignan, Cinsault, Grenache, Mouverde and Viognier from Swartland fruit. Spice and aniseed mix with lively black fruits on the nose. Youthful notes of blueberry and violet are layered over black plum and a fresh, flinty characteristic on the palate. 

2013 Syrah

A restrained, thoughtful expression of Syrah. Aromas of plum and dark cherry are given a broodiness by pepper and fynbos notes. The wine is fresh, with a crisp acidity and fine tannin that provides backbone and structure. 

2014 Thirst Gamay

A recent addition to the Radford Dale range is the 'Thirst Gamay', an unusual Beaujolais style wine that is massively fun but certainly not silly. The wine undergoes carbonic maceration in the cellar  (basically grapes are fermented whole in a closed tank filled with carbon dioxide) and as a result, is fresh, fruity and low in tannin. The nose is bursting with cranberry and strawberry fruit and a bracing acidity gives the wine an ethereal drinkability- you'll be wondering how you finished the bottle so quickly. 

Thirst Gamay

@bobbyfishel

http://www.thewineryofgoodhope.com/