A Visit To Steenberg

The Steenberg winery is based at the oldest farm in Cape Town, established in 1682. Steenberg (meaning stone mountain) is in Constantia, only 20 minutes from the centre of Cape Town. On site there is a five-star hotel, a fine-dining restaurant, Tapas Bistro and the cellar.

Situated on a peninsula with close proximity to the sea, the east-facing slopes of the vineyards receive the sun in the morning but are shrouded in shadow throughout the afternoon. This means the climate is cooler than most areas, and as a result white varieties thrive here, with 70% of the wine made being Sauvignon Blanc/Semillion blends. The soils suit white cultivars, with a mix of decomposed granite and a fine, white porcelain. The winemaker JD Pretorius and manager John Loubser spoke about the minerality that these soils give to the wines. The vines at Steenberg vary in age, with the oldest being 26 years old.

Sauvignon Blanc and Semillion Vineyards 

Decomposed granite and porcelain soils

I was shown around the Tapas restaurant at Steenberg, called Bistro 1682 and was mightily impressed by the beautiful water features surrounding the outside patio and the stylish decor of the tasting rooms, not to mention a fantastic hanging display over the bar, made from 2700 handcrafted glass grapes.

Bistro 1682

Water features

One of the tasting rooms

Hanging display of glass grapes

The well-equipped, modern winery is attached to the bistro and JD and John showed me the vinification methods of both the still and sparkling wines, before we tasted through the tanks and barrels.

Barrels and tanks in the winery

Winemaker JD Pretorius drawing wine from a barrel

Alongside the Steenberg wines, the winery contains John Loubser's own label MCC (Methode Cap Classique) wines called 'Silverthorn'. I've enthused about the Silverthorn wines before so it was interesting to see how these wines are made. As per the traditional method in Champagne, all these wines are slowly hand turned over an extended period of time before disgorgement, which is a labour intensive process. 

The Silverthorn Wines in bottle

After tasting in the cellar, we moved on to the tasting room upstairs in the Bistro to taste through both the Silverthorn and Steenberg ranges. Notes on the wines below. 

Upstairs tasting room in the bistro

Silverthorn 

Silverthorn (named after the thorns of the Acacia tree) was started by John Loubser in 2004, with the aim of making good quality, boutique Cap Classique wines. In 2004, the first vintage produced 3000 bottles, whereas the production is now 10,000 bottles. A large increase, but still a very small production. There are three wines in the Silverthorn range, a Blanc de Blancs, a Cuvée and a Rosé. 

Green Man 2012

Named after the spirit of the forest, the wine is 100% Chardonnay from Robertson fruit. 10% of the base wine was barrel fermented and the wine spent 30 months on the lees before disgorgement. A steely, citrus nose with a fine mousse and gorgeous, subtle notes of biscuit and toast. This is a remarkably fresh wine, and will reward you more for every year you let it age. 

The Green Man 2012 

Jewell Box 2011

Silverthorn's flagship wine, there were only 3,500 bottles made of this vintage. The name derives from the English astronomer, John Hershaw, in the 1830s nicknaming a star-cluster seen from Cape Town 'Jewell Box'. John (winemaker not 1800s astronomer) states that the idea behind the wine is to capture the African feeling, whilst keeping the product globally resonant. The packaging on all these wines is detailed and meaningful, (my terrible pictures really don't do them justice) with the Jewell Box showing the star cluster on the bottle neck.

Jewell Box star cluster

Details on the cap

The wine is a blend of 60% Chardonnay, 60% Pinot Noir and spent 42 months on the lees. There is juicy red apple fruit balancing out crisp citrus notes and a fantastic complexity of flavour. It evolved and opened whilst in the glass, displaying a nutty, almond and marzipan essence. It is drinking exceptionally well now and I can really see this bottle developing into a truly stunning wine with time to age. 

Jewell Box 2011

Genie

The largest production, with 11,000 bottles made. A non-vintage wine, made from 100% tank-aged Syrah with only a short period on the lees. Showing vibrant raspberry fruit on the nose, with notes of rosewater and turkish delight. This is less serious than the other two, but is a lot of fun to drink and makes for a perfect aperitif. 

Genie NV

Silverthorn Wines in glass 

Steenberg

Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc 2014

100% Sauvignon Blanc, the wine has a slightly discernible sweetness, with a residual sugar of 10.5g/l. It is lively, fruity and fresh with lemon, green apple, pineapple and guava all bursting from the glass, ideal for providing refreshment on a hot day. 

Sparkling Pinot Noir 2012

Made in a lighter style, with the grapes undergoing whole bunch press before fermentation. Pale salmon-pink, strawberries and cream stood out on the nose, following into strawberries and cream once again on the palate. A wine for Wimbledon. 

Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir

Sauvignon Blanc 2014

The fruit for the Steenberg Sauvignon Blanc comes from stressed vines, with small canopies and high winds leading to low yields. On the nose there is goosberry, lime and elderflower. Lime rind and citrus fruit stand out on the palate, with a mineral, flint and gun-smoke character. 

Steenberg Sauvignon Blanc

Rattlesnake 2014

Named after a ship that was used in the battle of Muizenberg in the 1700s, 20% of the wine spent time in new oak. Green apple and lime notes of rounded off by woody aromas and a rich, oily texture. A versatile wine that will pair well with food. 

Rattlesnake 2014

Black Swan 2013

Steenberg's flagship Sauvignon Blanc, with 60% of the grapes coming from the farm's oldest vines. Time on the lees and a years bottle aging, alongside being the only cork sealed Sauvignon Blanc lead to the premium status. White pepper and lime rind on the nose provide lightness to the full-bodied, textural palate and the flinty mineral core. 

The Black Swan 2013

Semillion 2013

Coming from two clones of the Semillion vine, the wine spent 9 months in french oak, including 35% in new oak. There are distinct Asian aromas on the nose, with lemongrass and bean sprouts combing with ripe tangerine. On the palate there is juicy white peach and stone fruits, with a thick, oily texture and a nice acidity to prevent any flabbiness. 

Semillion 2013

Magna Carta 2012

A barrel aged blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillion, this is the most premium wine of the range. Named after the Magna Carta document created by King John in 1215 (800 years ago this year), the wine is seen to be 'the law above the law', like the Magna Carta itself. There is no mention of Steenberg on the label, as the wine is potrayed as an entity unto its own. A wine that will age well for up to twenty years, there are layered citrus aromas and a real textural opulence, cut through by a fine acidity. 

Magna Carta 2012

Nebbiolo 2013

I'd never come across a South African Nebbiolo before, so it was intriguing to see Steenberg's take on the grape. Coming from South Africa's first planting of Nebbiolo in 1994, there is black cherry, rhubarb, dried fruits and rose on the nose. The wine is ethereal in the mouth, like silk fluttering in a breeze, before the oaken notes and huge tannin, typical of Nebbiolo, draws the moisture from your mouth and reminds you of the serious backbone to the wine. Unusual, and extremely enjoyable.

Nebbiolo 2013

Merlot 2011

Lavender, mint and violet on the nose, with soft and velvety plum fruit and hints of dark chocolate given earthiness from herbal, fynbos notes. The wine is weighty but well structured with firm tannin. It will reward some time in the cellar. 

Merlot 2011

Catarina 2013

This is the premium red blend from Steenberg. Named after the original owner of the farm in the 1600s. She was a German woman called Catarina. After her husband died, she disguised herself as a man, decided to set up a farm and began a new life in Cape Town. She met a German Soldier called Hans (who saw through the disguise) and started to farm cattle. Unfortunately for her, the curse of the luckless husband did not leave her behind. A severe drought caused lions to come down from the mountains and eat the cows. Hans was killed by a lion whilst defending his cattle, leaving Catarina alone again. This solitude did not last long, and Catarina shortly found love once more, this time with a hunter. However, her third husband went out on a hunting expedition, only to never return and was pronounced dead after 9 months.

No prizes for guessing what happened next. Catarina married for a fourth time, only for a rogue elephant to trample her desperately unlucky spouse, causing him to suffer the fate of her previous partners. Not to be put off by the four consecutive deaths of her husbands, she married again, to what must have been a very brave/foolish man. The fifth husband, however, avoided death's clammy grasp and managed to outlive Catarina, looking after her 13 children in the process.

After this tale of misery and woe I was more than ready to try the wine. A full-bodied blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, there is an abundance of ripe red fruit on the nose, accompanied by earthy, herbal notes. Weighty and tannic, the wine has a complex depth of flavour and will reward extended cellaring. A wine to die for...

Catarina 2013

After tasting through the wines, John opened a bottle of both the Silverthorn Green Man and Jewel Box from the 2009 vintage, which demonstrated just how well these wines will reward time in cellar. To go with the wines we were served a vast array of tapas from the Bistro 1682 kitchen. They were utterly delicious, and there was enough food for myself, John, JD, Catarina and all of her husbands. I ate until I was fit to burst, thanked John and JD for their hospitality and left feeling very full and very happy.


http://www.steenbergfarm.com/

@bobbyfishel

Botanica Wines

On a cold, wet and windy day in the Western Cape I drove to Protea Heights Farm in Stellenbosch to meet Ginny Povall from Botanica Wines.

Ginny is from Boston in America; she decided to pack her bags and leave her former life behind her in order to pursue a new vocation- making wine. Before she bought her farm she had no formal wine making experience or training. She learnt through weekend courses and a whole lot of intuition, completing her first harvest in 2008. She is now making award winning wines which is a testament to her endeavor and bravery. We met at her beautiful guesthouse 'Sugarbird Manor' to taste through her wines in peaceful tranquility as the pitter-patter of the rain and her dozing cats created an ambiance of shelter and safety from the elements.

View from Sugarbird Manor

 

Tasting Room

Mary Delaney Collection Chenin Blanc 2013

100% Chenin Blanc sourced from the much revered Skurfberg mountain. The wine was harvested when the grapes were extremely ripe, and has an alcohol level sitting at 14%. Half of the wine was aged in 400 litre oak barrels with the other half in stainless steel tank, blended together before bottling. There is rich, opulent fruit on the nose with crisp citrus and refreshing white pear mingling with fleshy mango and peach. A lush, weighty mouthfeel is nicely balanced by a taut acidity. 

Chenin Blanc 2013

The labels on the bottles are inspired by the artwork of Mary Delaney, who created the images on Ginny's packaging in the 1700s from tiny pieces of cut paper. Fortunately, Ginny managed to obtain a license to use the artwork on her labels. 

Mary Delaney Collection Pinot Noir 2013

Deep in colour for a Pinot Noir, once again the opulent fruit of the wine stands out. Juicy red strawberry and cherry are layered beneath alluring notes of tart rhubarb and damson. An understated wood influence provides complexity, with subtle tannin giving a structural grip on the finish. 13% alcohol. 

Pinot Noir 2013

Big Flower 2015

A rosé made from a blend of Chenin Blanc and Petit Verdot. Pale salmon in the glass, the nose is pronounced and juicy with expressive guava and grapefruit aromas being followed by mouthwatering watermelon and strawberry. The wine had been open for three days and was still showing very well: clean, fresh and fun to drink. 

Big Flower 2015

Merlot 'Under the Leaves' 2014

Only just bottled and not yet labelled, made from Merlot grapes grown on Ginny's farm. The clay soils suit Merlot, and the grapes were picked at 3 different times to get a balance of acidity and riper flavours. The farm is small, only 5 hectares and Ginny farms intensively and organically. The wine has an abundance of primary fruit on the nose, with plum and dark cherry standing out. A smooth, soft entry and rich mouthfeel is given a structural backbone by grippy tannins. 

http://www.botanicawines.com/

@bobbyfishel 

The Winery of Good Hope

The Winery of Good Hope was established in 1998 by Ben Radford and Alex Dale. The winery produces 4 ranges of wine, with the Radford Dale range being the premium.  The cellar is situated in the Helderberg Mountains, 4 kilometres from the ocean. As a result, the vines benefit from cooling breezes, preventing the grapes from becoming overripe and allowing the wines to retain freshness.

I was met by Angela Jordaan, who is part of the sales team, for a tour of the farm and cellar. We tasted new vintages in barrel with winemaker Jacques De Klerk before tasting through the Radford Dale range in bottle. Jacques makes his own fantastic Chenin Blanc under the 'Reverie' label and it is well worth seeking out.

Notes on the Radford Dale Range below.

2013 Chardonnay

The grapes came from 20 year old vines that were harvested in two pickings, one week apart. This method of picking the grapes allows for the freshness and high acidity of the early picking to blend with the riper flavours of the later pick, creating complexity and balance in the wine. The wine was fermented and matured in large oak barrels, with 10% being new wood. There is concentrated lemon rind on the nose, fleshed out by a slight buttery creaminess. On the palate the ripe citrus fruits and crisp acidity lend freshness to the weighty, textured mouthfeel. 

2013 Freedom Pinot Noir

Sourced from 3 different vineyards in the cooler climate of Elgin, this is a wine that demonstrates elegance and finesse over ripeness and opulence. Aromatic red berries and wild strawberry on the nose are given depth by earthier, herbal flavours. The wine is well balanced and soft, integrated tannin provides a slight grip on the finish. 

2014 Nudity Syrah

Sourced from 30 year old vines in an organic single vineyard on the Paardeberg mountain, the wine has absolutely no sulphur addition. It is a remarkable wine, with vibrant, expressive black cherry on the nose and and layer after layer of flavour on the palate. The wine has a textural elasticity, it reverberates around the mouth delivering concentrated, pure fruit and finishes with finessed tannin.

2013 Black Rock

A blend of Syrah, Carignan, Cinsault, Grenache, Mouverde and Viognier from Swartland fruit. Spice and aniseed mix with lively black fruits on the nose. Youthful notes of blueberry and violet are layered over black plum and a fresh, flinty characteristic on the palate. 

2013 Syrah

A restrained, thoughtful expression of Syrah. Aromas of plum and dark cherry are given a broodiness by pepper and fynbos notes. The wine is fresh, with a crisp acidity and fine tannin that provides backbone and structure. 

2014 Thirst Gamay

A recent addition to the Radford Dale range is the 'Thirst Gamay', an unusual Beaujolais style wine that is massively fun but certainly not silly. The wine undergoes carbonic maceration in the cellar  (basically grapes are fermented whole in a closed tank filled with carbon dioxide) and as a result, is fresh, fruity and low in tannin. The nose is bursting with cranberry and strawberry fruit and a bracing acidity gives the wine an ethereal drinkability- you'll be wondering how you finished the bottle so quickly. 

Thirst Gamay

@bobbyfishel

http://www.thewineryofgoodhope.com/

A Lesson in Farming and Fantastic Food at Waterkloof

Paul Boutinot, custodian of Waterkloof wines, searched for 10 years before he managed to find the perfect site for Waterkloof. Situated 300m above sea level with a close proximity to the sea, the area benefits from cooling breezes. The combination of altitude and cooling winds means that Waterkloof is around 4 degrees centigrade cooler than the average temperature in Stellenbosch. As a result, the grapes can retain their natural acidity and ripen slowly, allowing for the wines to display the elegance of a cooler climate. Furthermore, high wind speeds, reaching up to 50km/h prevent the build up of fungal infection on the vines. Thus it is a perfect location for biodynamic farming, a method in which Waterkloof is certified. Waterkloof describe biodynamic farming as "an imperfect, natural agricultural process of cultivation based on the “sensitive intelligence of an interconnected natural world. As Biodynamic farmers, we work to create a diverse, balanced ecosystem that generates health and fertility as much as possible from within the farm itself". 
http://www.waterkloofwines.co.za/biodynamic-farming/biodynamic-organic-farming/
A kind of organics on steroids, if you like.

I spent the day with Christiaan Loots, the farm manager at Waterkloof and was given a fascinating lesson in all things organic and biodynamic. Unfortunately when I arrived the weather was not being kind. Clouds pervaded the farm and the fog blanketing the vineyards meant the spectacular views were lost.

The cellar at Waterkloof in the distance, shrouded in fog

Cloudy view over the vineyards

Despite the weather, Christiaan and I got into the world-weary bakkie (aka pick-up truck) affectionately known as 'the mule' and began our tour of the farm. He explained to me how as a biodynamic farmer he spends most of his time out on the farm opposed to in his office: "as a regular farmer, you are removed from the farm and nature like some kind of supreme being. As a biodynamic farmer you work within the systems of nature to create vitality." 80% of the labour on the farm is done by horses, with each horse able to pull around 1.6 tonnes of grapes each during harvest. Not only are they strong, but they are quick learners too, with Christiaan saying he can train a horse to plough in 3 weeks. When not working they have an abundance of space to run and graze, "they may be workers but they also need time just to be horses."

Ploughs used by the horses 

Not only are there horses on the farm, but cows, chickens and sheep. All of which play an important part in maintaining the biodynamic status.

The chicken 'coop' (more of a house, really)

The eggs laid by the chickens go straight for use in the fantastic restaurant at Waterkloof (more about that later). The shells from the eggs are combined with dung from lactating cows and left in stone pits for 3 months. This creates one of the most diverse micro-bacterial spray substances, and is sprayed over the vines at a rate of 1kg per hectare.

Christiaan opening the stone pits 

Getting our hands amongst the dungy, earthworm-filled substance

The stone pits where the eggshells and dung are left

Cow dung is utilised again when added to sheep faeces, a substance that is extremely high in nitrogen and healthy microbes. This is used as a compost across the farm, and when Christiaan showed me the composting heap, I noticed a remarkable lack of flies, which he puts down to the natural antibiotics in the mix.

Sheep roaming the farm

Compost heap

Christiaan then took me into a small room in an out-house, where more ingenious sprays and fertilisers are concocted. One sounded particularly unpleasant. Fish emulsion from leftovers at the restaurant are taken and added to microbes and sugar and then left in the sun. The microbes take over and the fish ferments. Despite how it sounded, the mixture didn't smell unpleasant, more like a mild fish oil. Due to the healthy bacteria, the fish doesn't putrify. Another mixture created by Christiaan is an insecticide made from chilli and garlic- far removed from the harsh chemicals found in most commercial farming environments.

Fish emulsion

Chilli and garlic insecticide

It was fascinating to see how the farm could support itself in such a way, exist as a living entity, with the utmost care taken by Christiaan and his farming team to look after the soils, vines and animals in the most natural way possible. This method of farming is conveyed in the winemaking also, which is done entirely using natural fermentation; a celebration of the biodynamic farm and a true expression of site. Christiaan dropped me off at the beautiful tasting lounge, where I was met by the attentive and enthusiastic Zandri to taste through some of the wines. Notes below:

Tasting Lounge at Waterkloof

Circumstance Sauvignon Blanc 2014

A nice change from the predictable, mass produced Sauvignon Blanc. Aged in 600 litre old oak barrels, there was white pepper, gooseberry and elderflower on the nose, followed by a weighty, textured palate with a mineral core. It was crisp and refreshing, but had enough depth to create substance. 

Circle of Life 2012

A blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc and Semillon. Notes of lime, peach and a slight butteriness on the nose. On the palate there are ripe tropical fruits and a fresh acidity.

Waterkloof Sauvignon Blanc 2014

A complex and intriguing example of Sauvignon Blanc, this is the only wine that carries the 'Waterkloof' name. There are lime and elderflower aromas like the Circumstance, but earthy, fynbos notes lend a depth and complexity to the concentrated citrus flavours. 

Seriously Cool Cinsault 2014

The first red wine I tasted, the Cinsault was a light, pale ruby colour with pronounced red berries and cherry on the nose. The palate displayed vibrant strawberry and red fruit flavours. A simple wine that is very fresh and fun to drink.

Circle of Life Red Blend 2010

A blend of Merlot, Syrah and Petit Verdot. 50% whole bunch press and aged for 2 years in the bottle before release. The nose displayed dark plum and spice, with an earthy, complex palate giving complexity to the soft, juicy fruits and integrated tannin.

Circumstance Syrah 2010

Whole bunch fermented in open topped wooden containers. A dark, brooding nose is lifted by floral, white pepper notes. There is lavender and soft plum on the richly textured palate followed by a grippy tannin.

Circumstance Cabernet Franc 2012

Blackberry and pepper aromas are lifted by green, herbal notes. It is full bodied and deep with elegant, blackcurrant fruits and crunchy tannin.

Circumstance Cabernet Sauvignon 2010

A serious wine with good structure and rich flavours. Blackcurrant leaf and plum on the nose, followed by ripe, opulent primary fruit on the palate, nicely rounded with a slightly toasty finish resulting from the 22 months spent in oak.

Circumstance Cabernet Franc

 After the tasting, I had time to enjoy lunch in the stunning restaurant. The views were breathtaking and the food was quite brilliant, prepared with innovation and meticulous care by Chef Gregory Czarnecki and his kitchen. I can't speak highly enough of the restaurant and can't wait to visit again. Pictures below.

Restaurant at Waterkloof

The view from the table

The Food

Amuse bouche of rare beef, apple puree and apple foam

Stunning: Textures of peas with truffled buttermilk

Scottish Salmon with dill oil and beetroot cremeux

Yellowtail with squid ink vinaigrette and red pepper crumbs

Duck 'a l'orange', confit orange and sultana fritter

Langbaken Karoo Blue cheese, cauliflower and tonka with crackling and pecan nut

Pre-dessert: Chocolate three ways with ice-cream 

Quince and Verjuice Terrine, buffalo yoghurt, toffee powder and pollen

I somehow managed to eat it all, the food was just too good to leave. Needless to say I was stuffed, and needed a strong espresso before I was fit to be on my way.

Thank you to the team at Waterkloof for your impeccable hospitality.


@bobbyfishel

http://www.waterkloofwines.co.za/