Situated on a peninsula with close proximity to the sea, the east-facing slopes of the vineyards receive the sun in the morning but are shrouded in shadow throughout the afternoon. This means the climate is cooler than most areas, and as a result white varieties thrive here, with 70% of the wine made being Sauvignon Blanc/Semillion blends. The soils suit white cultivars, with a mix of decomposed granite and a fine, white porcelain. The winemaker JD Pretorius and manager John Loubser spoke about the minerality that these soils give to the wines. The vines at Steenberg vary in age, with the oldest being 26 years old.
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| Sauvignon Blanc and Semillion Vineyards |
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| Decomposed granite and porcelain soils |
I was shown around the Tapas restaurant at Steenberg, called Bistro 1682 and was mightily impressed by the beautiful water features surrounding the outside patio and the stylish decor of the tasting rooms, not to mention a fantastic hanging display over the bar, made from 2700 handcrafted glass grapes.
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| Bistro 1682 |
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| Water features |
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| One of the tasting rooms |
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| Hanging display of glass grapes |
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| Barrels and tanks in the winery |
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| Winemaker JD Pretorius drawing wine from a barrel |
Alongside the Steenberg wines, the winery contains John Loubser's own label MCC (Methode Cap Classique) wines called 'Silverthorn'. I've enthused about the Silverthorn wines before so it was interesting to see how these wines are made. As per the traditional method in Champagne, all these wines are slowly hand turned over an extended period of time before disgorgement, which is a labour intensive process.
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| The Silverthorn Wines in bottle |
After tasting in the cellar, we moved on to the tasting room upstairs in the Bistro to taste through both the Silverthorn and Steenberg ranges. Notes on the wines below.
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| Upstairs tasting room in the bistro |
Silverthorn
Silverthorn (named after the thorns of the Acacia tree) was started by John Loubser in 2004, with the aim of making good quality, boutique Cap Classique wines. In 2004, the first vintage produced 3000 bottles, whereas the production is now 10,000 bottles. A large increase, but still a very small production. There are three wines in the Silverthorn range, a Blanc de Blancs, a Cuvée and a Rosé.
Green Man 2012
Named after the spirit of the forest, the wine is 100% Chardonnay from Robertson fruit. 10% of the base wine was barrel fermented and the wine spent 30 months on the lees before disgorgement. A steely, citrus nose with a fine mousse and gorgeous, subtle notes of biscuit and toast. This is a remarkably fresh wine, and will reward you more for every year you let it age.
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| The Green Man 2012 |
Jewell Box 2011
Silverthorn's flagship wine, there were only 3,500 bottles made of this vintage. The name derives from the English astronomer, John Hershaw, in the 1830s nicknaming a star-cluster seen from Cape Town 'Jewell Box'. John (winemaker not 1800s astronomer) states that the idea behind the wine is to capture the African feeling, whilst keeping the product globally resonant. The packaging on all these wines is detailed and meaningful, (my terrible pictures really don't do them justice) with the Jewell Box showing the star cluster on the bottle neck.
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| Jewell Box star cluster |
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| Details on the cap |
The wine is a blend of 60% Chardonnay, 60% Pinot Noir and spent 42 months on the lees. There is juicy red apple fruit balancing out crisp citrus notes and a fantastic complexity of flavour. It evolved and opened whilst in the glass, displaying a nutty, almond and marzipan essence. It is drinking exceptionally well now and I can really see this bottle developing into a truly stunning wine with time to age.
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| Jewell Box 2011 |
Genie
The largest production, with 11,000 bottles made. A non-vintage wine, made from 100% tank-aged Syrah with only a short period on the lees. Showing vibrant raspberry fruit on the nose, with notes of rosewater and turkish delight. This is less serious than the other two, but is a lot of fun to drink and makes for a perfect aperitif.
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| Genie NV |
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| Silverthorn Wines in glass |
Steenberg
Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc 2014
100% Sauvignon Blanc, the wine has a slightly discernible sweetness, with a residual sugar of 10.5g/l. It is lively, fruity and fresh with lemon, green apple, pineapple and guava all bursting from the glass, ideal for providing refreshment on a hot day.
Sparkling Pinot Noir 2012
Made in a lighter style, with the grapes undergoing whole bunch press before fermentation. Pale salmon-pink, strawberries and cream stood out on the nose, following into strawberries and cream once again on the palate. A wine for Wimbledon.
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| Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir |
Sauvignon Blanc 2014
The fruit for the Steenberg Sauvignon Blanc comes from stressed vines, with small canopies and high winds leading to low yields. On the nose there is goosberry, lime and elderflower. Lime rind and citrus fruit stand out on the palate, with a mineral, flint and gun-smoke character.
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| Steenberg Sauvignon Blanc |
Rattlesnake 2014
Named after a ship that was used in the battle of Muizenberg in the 1700s, 20% of the wine spent time in new oak. Green apple and lime notes of rounded off by woody aromas and a rich, oily texture. A versatile wine that will pair well with food.
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| Rattlesnake 2014 |
Steenberg's flagship Sauvignon Blanc, with 60% of the grapes coming from the farm's oldest vines. Time on the lees and a years bottle aging, alongside being the only cork sealed Sauvignon Blanc lead to the premium status. White pepper and lime rind on the nose provide lightness to the full-bodied, textural palate and the flinty mineral core.
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| The Black Swan 2013 |
Semillion 2013
Coming from two clones of the Semillion vine, the wine spent 9 months in french oak, including 35% in new oak. There are distinct Asian aromas on the nose, with lemongrass and bean sprouts combing with ripe tangerine. On the palate there is juicy white peach and stone fruits, with a thick, oily texture and a nice acidity to prevent any flabbiness.
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| Semillion 2013 |
Magna Carta 2012
A barrel aged blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillion, this is the most premium wine of the range. Named after the Magna Carta document created by King John in 1215 (800 years ago this year), the wine is seen to be 'the law above the law', like the Magna Carta itself. There is no mention of Steenberg on the label, as the wine is potrayed as an entity unto its own. A wine that will age well for up to twenty years, there are layered citrus aromas and a real textural opulence, cut through by a fine acidity.
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| Magna Carta 2012 |
Nebbiolo 2013
I'd never come across a South African Nebbiolo before, so it was intriguing to see Steenberg's take on the grape. Coming from South Africa's first planting of Nebbiolo in 1994, there is black cherry, rhubarb, dried fruits and rose on the nose. The wine is ethereal in the mouth, like silk fluttering in a breeze, before the oaken notes and huge tannin, typical of Nebbiolo, draws the moisture from your mouth and reminds you of the serious backbone to the wine. Unusual, and extremely enjoyable.
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| Nebbiolo 2013 |
Merlot 2011
Lavender, mint and violet on the nose, with soft and velvety plum fruit and hints of dark chocolate given earthiness from herbal, fynbos notes. The wine is weighty but well structured with firm tannin. It will reward some time in the cellar.
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| Merlot 2011 |
Catarina 2013
This is the premium red blend from Steenberg. Named after the original owner of the farm in the 1600s. She was a German woman called Catarina. After her husband died, she disguised herself as a man, decided to set up a farm and began a new life in Cape Town. She met a German Soldier called Hans (who saw through the disguise) and started to farm cattle. Unfortunately for her, the curse of the luckless husband did not leave her behind. A severe drought caused lions to come down from the mountains and eat the cows. Hans was killed by a lion whilst defending his cattle, leaving Catarina alone again. This solitude did not last long, and Catarina shortly found love once more, this time with a hunter. However, her third husband went out on a hunting expedition, only to never return and was pronounced dead after 9 months.
No prizes for guessing what happened next. Catarina married for a fourth time, only for a rogue elephant to trample her desperately unlucky spouse, causing him to suffer the fate of her previous partners. Not to be put off by the four consecutive deaths of her husbands, she married again, to what must have been a very brave/foolish man. The fifth husband, however, avoided death's clammy grasp and managed to outlive Catarina, looking after her 13 children in the process.
After this tale of misery and woe I was more than ready to try the wine. A full-bodied blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, there is an abundance of ripe red fruit on the nose, accompanied by earthy, herbal notes. Weighty and tannic, the wine has a complex depth of flavour and will reward extended cellaring. A wine to die for...
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| Catarina 2013 |
After tasting through the wines, John opened a bottle of both the Silverthorn Green Man and Jewel Box from the 2009 vintage, which demonstrated just how well these wines will reward time in cellar. To go with the wines we were served a vast array of tapas from the Bistro 1682 kitchen. They were utterly delicious, and there was enough food for myself, John, JD, Catarina and all of her husbands. I ate until I was fit to burst, thanked John and JD for their hospitality and left feeling very full and very happy.
http://www.steenbergfarm.com/
@bobbyfishel
http://www.steenbergfarm.com/
@bobbyfishel
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