Monday 20 April 2015

Recap: When Sager + Wilde met Typing Room.

It's taken me a bit longer than I would've liked to get this up, but finally here it is, a recap of when Sager + Wilde met Typing Room on 18th March for a night of quite brilliant food and wine.

The evening started in the understated yet effortlessly stylish bar Peg and Patriot, situated next to Typing Room. The cocktail list was unusual and inventive, but only having time for one I opted for the Vesgroni- an invigorating drink made with Campari, Gin, Americano and Konik's Tail vodka.


Vesgroni


When seated in the restaurant, facing the theatrical open kitchen, we were served 'snacks'. These included profiteroles with courgette and basil cream filling, crispy fish skins with emulsions and pigs trotter croquettes, paired with 'Adonis': a refreshing sherry based cocktail. 

Pigs Trotters
Fish Skin
Profiteroles
                                                            
The next course of IPA Sourdough Bread and marmite butter was simple but staggeringly rich in flavour, and as Marina O'Loughlin wrote "worthy of stalking obsession".  The wine pairing was equally as flavoursome: The Extra Brut Beaux Hauts 1992 from the Russian River Valley, California. This was disgorged in 2010 after spending 18 years on the lees and was brimming with layer after layer of complex flavours such as caramel, butterscotch and baked bread, with a crisp acidity giving the wine an amazing freshness after 22 years. Unforgettable and unique.

IPA Sourdough, Marmite Butter & Chicken Skin butter
The next course of Mackerel, Passion Fruit and Kohlrabi (a cultivar of cabbage) was served with one of my all time favourite wines: Scholium Project 'Prince In His Caves', 2011. The Scholium Project was started in California in 2000 by Abe Schoener, a one-time philosophy teacher. See http://www.scholiumwines.com/ for more details. There were only 276 cases made of the 2011 'Prince in His Caves'; a skin contact Sauvignon Blanc with no de-stemming before fermentation. A deep orange colour, the wine is smoky and full-flavoured with a stunning, sharp citrus edge. It is truly remarkable.

Following this was Celeriac, foie gras, mustard and walnut, served with the first red wine of the night: a delicate and elegant Burgundy from Pierre Morey, who is also the vingeron at Domaine Leflaive. The wine was sourced from vines planted in 1964, located in the village of Monthelie, between Mersault and Volnay and produced using biodynamic principles. 

The fifth course of the evening was a fascinating take on the humble cauliflower, and was a shining example of the intricate and innovative cooking taking place in Lee Westcott's kitchen at Typing Room. The cauliflower was crunchy and deep fried, tart and raw and contrasted exquisitely with creamy puree and whole chargrilled florets. The dish was served with grapes, capers and mint; and provided a circuitous tour of taste and texture. 
The wine pairing with this course was also something to savour. JJ Prum is one of the best respected estates in Mosel, Germany, and this intense yet harmonious 2007 Riesling from the steep, rocky Wehlener Sonnenuhr vineyard displayed exactly why. 

Yeasted Cauliflower, Grapes, Capers & Mint

The second fish course of the evening, halibut, white asparagus, curry and pine was a thought-provoking dish with the curry giving an unusual tang to the mild, moist halibut. This was matched by a wine from one of South Africa's most celebrated producers (and one of my go-to favourites) Eben Sadie. The 2013 'Skerpioen' is a blend of Chenin Blanc and Palomino from 66 year old vines in the Swartland. The Palomino grape, predominantly used in sherry, gives an intriguing Manzanilla profile that compliments the racing acidity of the Chenin, leading to a bold and fascinating wine with a relentless finish.

Halibut, white asparagus, curry & pine
Charred lamb, aubergine and yoghurt was the menu's meat course, and the lamb was tender and rare; perfectly cooked. 'Les Perriers' Cabernet Franc 1989 from Bourgeuil in the Loire was the wine of choice for the penultimate course, and was stunningly alive and elegant with age. 


By this point, I was feeling full; well fed and well drunk, and the dessert of sheep's yoghurt, dill and apple was a light dish that was full of clean, uplifting flavours. The final wine of the evening was Champagne from the world-renowned Jacques Selosse. The 'Initiale' NV Brut Blanc de Blancs was shimmering with purity, vivid and prismatic with flavour and utterly lifegiving. A thrilling way to end a mesmerising journey. 

The menu in full:

Snacks
Adonis

IPA sourdough & marmite butter
Extra Brut Beaux Hauts 1992 / Russian River Valley

Mackerel, passion fruit & kohlrabi
'Prince In His Caves' Scholium Project 2011 / Sonoma County

Celeriac, foie gras, mustard & walnut
Pinot Noir 'Monthelie' Pierre Morey 2004 / Burgundy

Yeasted cauliflower, raisins, capers & mint
Riesling 'Wehlener Sonnenuhr' JJ Prum 2007 / Mosel

Halibut, white asparagus, curry & pine
Chenin Blanc 'Skerpioen' The Sadie Family 2013 / Swartland

Charred lamb, aubergine & yoghurt
Bourgeuil 'Les Perrieres' 1989 / Loire

Sheep's yoghurt, dill & apple
Blanc de Blancs Brut 'Initiale' Jacques Selosse NV / Champagne




@bobbyfishel





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